Fourth of July. Pandemic version. No forty-person backyard cookout. No fireworks. Just the family — me, Tyler, Emma, Lily, and Ma (her first Fourth of July since getting sick). We set up in my backyard with distance between the chairs, masks in our pockets just in case, and the smoker running like it's any other year.
Because it is any other year. The pandemic changes the context but not the content. The brisket doesn't know about COVID. The smoker doesn't care about social distancing. The fire burns the same at 225 degrees whether the world is normal or not.
I smoked one brisket (down from three — small crowd, small cook) and a rack of ribs. Tyler made his sausage. Emma made bao buns. Lily made her Vietnamese lemonade. Ma brought spring rolls — she'd made them at her house, alone, early that morning. When she arrived, she was carrying the tray with both hands and she was moving slowly and she looked tired and she looked proud.
"Two hundred and twelve," she said, putting the tray down.
"Ma, there are six of us."
"Leftovers are not waste."
We ate. The six of us in a circle of lawn chairs in a backyard in Alief. No neighborhood crowd. No strangers. No football game on the speakers. Just the family that survived the spring.
Ashley came by in the evening for sparklers. She and Tyler stood in the driveway waving sparklers in the dark and they looked like any other young couple on the Fourth of July in any other year, and for ten minutes the pandemic was invisible and the world was just two kids with fire in their hands.
Ma fell asleep in her chair at 8:30 PM. She sleeps more since the COVID. The lungs are recovering but the fatigue lingers. I carried her to Tyler's car (he drove her home) and she weighed nothing. She weighs nothing. She's always weighed nothing, physically. The weight she carries is all internal — fifty years of memory and survival and pho broth.
Small Fourth. Good Fourth. The fire burned. The family ate. The sparklers faded. The summer goes on.
Made leftover brisket fried rice on Sunday. Day-old rice, sliced brisket, egg, scallion, fish sauce. The fusion of my two worlds in a wok. Bobby Tran in one dish.
Sunday after the Fourth, the smoker was cold and the yard was quiet, but there was still half a brisket in the fridge and day-old rice in the pot — and that’s all I needed. Ma’s spring rolls were gone, Tyler’s sausage was gone, but the brisket lingered the way brisket always does, better the next day, patient. I sliced it thin, got the wok hot, and made something that is entirely mine: smoked Texas beef, fish sauce, scallion, egg — two worlds in one pan. This Asian Noodle Stir-Fry is the weeknight cousin of that Sunday dish, built for the same wok logic and the same honest hunger.
Asian Noodle Stir-Fry
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 15 min | Total Time: 30 min | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 8 oz lo mein or rice noodles
- 1 lb leftover cooked brisket (or beef sirloin), thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 teaspoon fresh ginger, grated
- 1 cup shredded napa cabbage
- 1 medium carrot, julienned
- 1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
- 4 scallions, sliced (whites and greens separated)
- 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
- 3 tablespoons soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon fish sauce
- 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
- 1 teaspoon sesame oil
- 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
- Sesame seeds, for garnish
Instructions
- Cook the noodles. Prepare noodles according to package directions. Drain, rinse with cold water, and toss with a small drizzle of oil to prevent sticking. Set aside.
- Mix the sauce. In a small bowl, whisk together soy sauce, fish sauce, oyster sauce, and sesame oil. Set aside.
- Sear the beef. Heat 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil in a large wok or skillet over high heat until smoking. Add the brisket slices in a single layer and sear 1–2 minutes until lightly caramelized. Remove from the wok and set aside.
- Cook the aromatics and vegetables. Add the remaining tablespoon of oil to the wok. Add garlic, ginger, and scallion whites and stir-fry 30 seconds until fragrant. Add carrot, bell pepper, and cabbage and cook 2–3 minutes, tossing frequently, until just tender but still crisp.
- Scramble the eggs. Push the vegetables to one side of the wok. Pour the beaten eggs into the empty side and scramble gently, breaking into small curds, then toss everything together.
- Combine and sauce. Add the noodles and seared brisket back to the wok. Pour the sauce over everything and toss with tongs over high heat for 1–2 minutes until the noodles are evenly coated and heated through.
- Finish and serve. Remove from heat. Top with scallion greens, sesame seeds, and red pepper flakes if using. Serve immediately, straight from the wok.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 480 | Protein: 31g | Fat: 16g | Carbs: 52g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 980mg
About the cook who shared this
Bobby Tran
Week 223 of Bobby’s 30-year story
· Houston, Texas
Bobby Tran was born in a refugee camp in Arkansas to parents who fled Saigon with nothing. He grew up in Houston straddling two worlds — Vietnamese at home, Texan everywhere else — and learned to cook from his mother's pho and a neighbor's BBQ smoker. He's a former shrimper, a recovering alcoholic, a divorced dad of three, and the guy who marinates brisket in fish sauce and lemongrass because he doesn't believe in borders, especially when it comes to flavor.