October. The restaurant has been open for five months. The honeymoon is definitely over. The romance is settling into marriage — which, if my previous marriage is any guide, means the real work begins.
Problems: staffing. Diego gave his two-week notice. He's been offered a sous chef position at a restaurant in Midtown — better pay, more responsibility, a step up in his career. I can't be angry. I trained him, and now he's good enough to be poached. That's a compliment. But it leaves me without a grill cook, which means I'm covering his station during the transition.
Emma and I interviewed three candidates this week. Two were terrible (one couldn't identify fish sauce by smell, which is a non-starter in this kitchen). The third — a twenty-six-year-old woman named Maria, Salvadoran-American, trained at the Art Institute, currently working at a taco shop in the Heights — was excellent. She cooked a test dish: a pupusa with a Vietnamese-inspired curtido (kimchi-style slaw). It was creative, technically solid, and showed an understanding of fusion that this kitchen demands.
I hired her. She starts Monday.
The BBQ Fest prep continues. Tyler has the trailer built — it tows behind his truck (he upgraded from the Civic to a used F-150, because a pitmaster needs a truck). The 1,000-gallon offset mounts on the trailer and demounts at the site. He's tested it twice. The engineering is sound.
Emma developed the festival menu: sliced brisket by the half-pound, Smoked Brisket Pho in bowls, bao buns, and sauce jars. The pho at an outdoor festival requires a modified setup — she's using insulated containers to keep the broth hot, with a portable burner for noodle blanching. The logistics are a puzzle and Emma loves puzzles.
Lily's booth design is finalized: eight feet wide, branded with the full Smoke and Fish Sauce identity, with a monitor showing cooking videos. She's also arranged for a photographer to document the festival for social media content. She's sixteen and she's planning a media campaign.
Ma has been making spring rolls in bulk — 500 for the festival, frozen in batches, to be fried on-site. She's been at her house every day this week, wrapping. Five hundred spring rolls. She's seventy-four. She does not slow down. She does not reduce output. She is a factory that runs on stubbornness.
The fire keeps burning. The festival approaches. The team mobilizes.
With 500 spring rolls in the freezer, a new grill cook starting Monday, and a festival trailer finally road-tested, my brain has been living in logistics mode — which means the food I want to eat at home is the opposite of complicated. This Bacon Ranch Pasta Salad is exactly that: smoky, creamy, and built to feed a crew without any drama. After a week of interviewing line cooks and covering Diego’s station myself, something that comes together in under thirty minutes and tastes like it took all day is about as close to a victory lap as I’m going to get right now.
Bacon Ranch Pasta Salad
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 10 min | Total Time: 25 min (plus 1 hr chilling) | Servings: 8
Ingredients
- 12 oz rotini pasta
- 10 slices thick-cut bacon, cooked and crumbled
- 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
- 1/2 cup red onion, finely diced
- 1 cup sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
- 1/2 cup frozen peas, thawed
- 1 cup ranch dressing
- 1/3 cup sour cream
- 1 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for pasta water
- 2 tablespoons fresh chives or parsley, chopped (for garnish)
Instructions
- Cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook rotini according to package directions until al dente, about 8–9 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water to stop cooking. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and let cool completely.
- Cook the bacon. In a skillet over medium heat, cook bacon strips until crispy, about 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Once cooled, crumble into bite-sized pieces and set aside.
- Make the dressing. In a small bowl, whisk together the ranch dressing, sour cream, garlic powder, salt, and black pepper until smooth and fully combined.
- Combine the salad. Add the cherry tomatoes, red onion, cheddar cheese, thawed peas, and three-quarters of the crumbled bacon to the cooled pasta. Pour the dressing over the top and toss gently until everything is evenly coated.
- Chill and finish. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to let the flavors meld. Before serving, give it a good stir, taste for seasoning, and top with the remaining bacon crumbles and fresh chives or parsley.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 420 | Protein: 14g | Fat: 24g | Carbs: 38g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 710mg
About the cook who shared this
Bobby Tran
Week 278 of Bobby’s 30-year story
· Houston, Texas
Bobby Tran was born in a refugee camp in Arkansas to parents who fled Saigon with nothing. He grew up in Houston straddling two worlds — Vietnamese at home, Texan everywhere else — and learned to cook from his mother's pho and a neighbor's BBQ smoker. He's a former shrimper, a recovering alcoholic, a divorced dad of three, and the guy who marinates brisket in fish sauce and lemongrass because he doesn't believe in borders, especially when it comes to flavor.