Winter solstice. The shortest day. I've been marking this one for years — not with ritual exactly, but with acknowledgment. The moment the year turns back toward light. It happens without anyone's participation, without requiring any action, on its own schedule in its own time. Something I find comforting about the solstice is exactly that: it happens regardless. Light returns without being asked to.
Christmas is in four days. The prime rib is reserved at the butcher. Tom Whelan is coming, COVID or not — he made this clear in his own way last week, by calling to confirm his arrival time. His daughter Claire had wanted him to come to Colorado but he said he was in Montana and would be for Christmas. Some battles aren't worth fighting, she told me, and she was right about this one.
I've been thinking about the year as a whole. By any objective measure it was a hard year in the world: the pandemic, the restrictions, the deaths of people who deserved more time, the civic fracture, all of it. On the ranch it was different. The ranch gave us something to do that the world needed doing, regardless of what was happening elsewhere. The cattle needed calving, the horses needed shoes, the garden needed planting, and the work continued and the food came from the ground and the freezer held what we needed. I'm aware that this is a particular position to be in, that most people didn't have this. I try to hold that awareness rather than just the comfort.
Made oyster stew for the solstice instead of waiting for Christmas Eve — a second batch this year, which I've never done. Cream and butter and small oysters and celery salt. It tasted the same as always and different for being eaten on the longest night instead of the usual one. The season has multiple occasions. You can mark more than one of them.
The oyster stew marked the solstice, but the week leading into Christmas still needed its own anchor — something from the ranch, something that felt proportionate to the season Tom Whelan was making the drive for. Beef tenderloin is that dish for me: unhurried, deliberate, the kind of thing you prepare knowing that the people eating it have earned it. The balsamic sauce pulls it together with a sharpness that cuts through the richness, the way a clear-eyed look at a hard year can still leave you grateful for what held.
Beef Tenderloin with Balsamic Sauce
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 45 min | Total Time: 1 hr | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 2 1/2 lbs beef tenderloin, trimmed and tied
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 shallot, finely diced
- 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
- 1/2 cup beef broth
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
- 1 teaspoon honey
Instructions
- Bring to temperature. Remove the tenderloin from the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking and let it come to room temperature. Preheat oven to 425°F.
- Season the beef. Pat the tenderloin dry with paper towels. Rub all over with olive oil, then season evenly with salt, pepper, garlic powder, and thyme.
- Sear. Heat an oven-safe skillet over high heat until very hot. Sear the tenderloin on all sides until a deep brown crust forms, about 2–3 minutes per side.
- Roast. Transfer the skillet to the preheated oven. Roast until an instant-read thermometer registers 130°F for medium-rare, about 20–25 minutes. Remove from the oven, tent loosely with foil, and rest for 10 minutes.
- Build the sauce. While the beef rests, pour off all but 1 tablespoon of drippings from the skillet. Over medium heat, cook the shallot and garlic until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the balsamic vinegar and beef broth, scraping up any browned bits. Simmer until reduced by half, about 5 minutes.
- Finish the sauce. Remove from heat and whisk in the butter, Dijon mustard, and honey until smooth and glossy. Taste and adjust seasoning.
- Slice and serve. Remove the twine from the tenderloin. Slice into 3/4-inch medallions and arrange on a platter. Spoon the balsamic sauce over the top or serve alongside.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 420 | Protein: 38g | Fat: 26g | Carbs: 6g | Fiber: 0g | Sodium: 490mg