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Breakfast Tacos — The Morning After Wild Onion Gathering

Wild onion gathering day was Saturday. Hannah had coordinated with the Cherokee Nation nutrition program and there were about thirty families at the designated site east of Claremore — a flood plain where the wild onions grow thick along the creek banks, the way they have grown in Oklahoma creek bottoms since before anyone was keeping records. Kai held Hannah's hand and walked through the wet grass and looked at everything with serious concentration.

Wild onions look like a smaller, more delicate version of what you buy in the store, but they are not the same thing. The Cherokee wild onion — Allium canadense, the meadow garlic — has a flavor that is sharper and more complex, with a slight bitterness underneath the onion sweetness that the grocery store version does not have. You pull them by the bulb, shake off the soil, keep the whole plant, roots and all. Kai pulled three of them before he found a frog in the creek mud and the gathering became secondary to the frog situation.

Luna came in the carrier on Hannah's back. She is ten months old and she watched the whole gathering from that elevated position, turning her head to track the other children, watching the adults moving through the grass. Hannah talked to her the whole time, naming things: the plant, the creek, the trees coming into leaf, the birds. Hannah does this constantly — narrates the world to Luna in English and in Cherokee, building vocabulary in both languages simultaneously, which is either brilliant or exhausting or both.

I picked enough for a week's worth of meals. We cooked them Saturday night the traditional way — scrambled eggs with onions in a cast iron skillet, cooked until the eggs are just set and the onions have wilted and released their sharp, grassy smell into the fat of the eggs. Bean bread on the side. This is the meal. This is what wild onion gathering is for. You spend the morning on the land and you spend the evening eating what the land gave you, and somewhere in between those two things is the whole reason for doing it.

I drove to Terry's Sunday morning with a plate wrapped in foil. Danny ate every bite. He did not say your grandfather would have been pleased this time. He just ate, and when he was done he sat quiet for a while, and that was its own kind of approval.

The Saturday night eggs were the meal — they always are — but Sunday mornings after a gathering call for something you can fold in your hands and eat standing at the counter before the day gets complicated. Breakfast tacos have become my go-to for mornings like that one: you build them around eggs, you use whatever onion you have (or, if you planned well, a few of the wild ones you set aside the night before), and they come together fast enough that you’re eating before the cast iron has cooled. After a day that was already full — the creek, the frog, Luna watching from the carrier, Danny’s quiet when he finished his plate — something simple and hand-held felt exactly right.

Breakfast Tacos

Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 15 minutes | Total Time: 25 minutes | Servings: 4 (2 tacos each)

Ingredients

  • 8 small (6-inch) corn or flour tortillas
  • 6 large eggs
  • 2 tablespoons whole milk or cream
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
  • 1/2 cup diced onion (wild onions or scallions work beautifully here)
  • 1/2 cup cooked black beans, warmed
  • 1/2 cup shredded cheddar or pepper jack cheese
  • 1 small avocado, sliced
  • 1/4 cup salsa or pico de gallo
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro (optional)
  • Hot sauce, for serving

Instructions

  1. Warm the tortillas. Wrap the tortillas in a damp paper towel and microwave for 30–45 seconds, or warm them one at a time directly in a dry skillet over medium heat for about 30 seconds per side until pliable and lightly toasted. Keep wrapped in a clean kitchen towel until serving.
  2. Cook the onions. Melt butter in a cast iron skillet or nonstick pan over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3–4 minutes until softened and just beginning to turn golden at the edges.
  3. Scramble the eggs. Whisk together the eggs, milk, salt, and pepper in a bowl until fully combined. Pour the egg mixture into the pan with the onions. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring gently with a spatula, folding the eggs slowly until they are just set and still slightly glossy — about 3–4 minutes. Remove from heat before they look fully done; residual heat will finish them.
  4. Warm the beans. While the eggs cook, heat the black beans in a small saucepan over low heat or in a microwave-safe bowl for 60 seconds. Season with a pinch of salt.
  5. Assemble the tacos. Lay two tortillas per plate. Divide the scrambled eggs evenly among the tortillas. Top each with a spoonful of black beans, a few slices of avocado, a pinch of shredded cheese, and a spoonful of salsa or pico de gallo.
  6. Finish and serve. Scatter chopped cilantro over the top if using, and pass the hot sauce at the table. Serve immediately while the eggs are still warm.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 390 | Protein: 18g | Fat: 19g | Carbs: 38g | Fiber: 7g | Sodium: 520mg

Jesse Whitehawk
About the cook who shared this
Jesse Whitehawk
Week 50 of Jesse’s 30-year story · Tulsa, Oklahoma
Jesse is a thirty-nine-year-old welder, a Cherokee Nation citizen, and a married dad of three in Tulsa who cooks over open fire because that's how his grandpa Charlie did it and his grandpa's grandpa did it before him. His food draws from Cherokee tradition, Mexican heritage from his mother's side, and Oklahoma BBQ culture. He forages wild onions every spring and makes grape dumplings in the fall, and he considers both acts of cultural survival.

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