Cheddar Fondue —rsquo; The Warmth That Follows a Summer Running Out

Late August and the quality of the light is beginning to shift. Not dramatic yet, but if you're paying attention you can see it — a slightly lower angle in the afternoon, a quality of gold in the evening that June and July don't have. The summer is beginning its announcement of intentions. September is coming. The farm is full of late-summer abundance and also beginning to think about what comes next.

Made corn chowder this week — Helen's recipe, the cream and bacon version that she made every August without fail. The corn is at its peak right now, the milk in the kernels at maximum sweetness. You have to use corn at this exact stage; a week either way and the chowder is different. I used the last of the fresh corn for it and stood at the stove stirring and thought: yes, this is what August tastes like. This specific soup.

The dehydrator has been running all week with cherry tomatoes — the Sungold variety, sweet and orange, dried down to these concentrated little jewels that are excellent in everything through the winter. I fill small jars with them and they last until the next August. By February they taste like this week concentrated to a point.

Teddy's sourdough questions have continued via text all week. He made his first proper sourdough loaf on Sunday and sent a photo — good crust, open crumb, the kind of loaf that takes three days to get right and rewards the three days. I told him: that's a real loaf. He said: yeah, I'm going to make it again Wednesday. Three times is a practice beginning. By Wednesday it'll be better.

After spending an afternoon stirring Helen’s corn chowder and watching the light go gold through the kitchen window, I wanted something else warm for the evening — something to set in the middle of the table and let people pull from slowly, the way long summer evenings deserve. This cheddar fondue has that same unhurried, abundant quality as the chowder: cream, good cheese, a little heat, and the kind of simplicity that only works when the ingredients are worth trusting. It’s the right thing to make when the season is announcing its intentions and you want to slow it down, just a little, with people you like.

Cheddar Fondue

Prep Time: 10 min | Cook Time: 15 min | Total Time: 25 min | Servings: 6

Ingredients

• 1 clove garlic, halved
• 1 cup dry white wine or apple cider
• 2 teaspoons cornstarch
• 1 tablespoon cold water
• 3 cups sharp cheddar cheese, shredded (about 12 oz)
• 1 cup Gruyere cheese, shredded (about 4 oz)
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/4 teaspoon white pepper
• Pinch of cayenne pepper
• Crusty bread cubes, apple slices, blanched broccoli, and boiled baby potatoes for dipping

Instructions

1. Season the pot. Rub the inside of a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan or fondue pot thoroughly with the cut sides of the garlic clove. Discard the garlic or mince and add it back in if you prefer a stronger flavor.
2. Warm the wine. Pour the white wine or cider into the pot and heat over medium until it just begins to simmer. Do not boil.
3. Make the slurry. In a small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and cold water until completely smooth. Set aside.
4. Add the cheese. Add the shredded cheddar and Gruyere to the simmering wine a handful at a time, stirring in a slow figure-eight motion after each addition. Let each handful melt fully before adding the next.
5. Thicken and season. Once all the cheese is melted and the mixture is smooth, stir in the cornstarch slurry. Continue stirring over medium-low heat for 2 to 3 minutes until the fondue thickens slightly. Stir in the Dijon mustard, nutmeg, white pepper, and cayenne.
6. Serve immediately. Transfer to a fondue pot set over a low flame to keep warm, or serve directly from the saucepan over the lowest possible heat. Arrange dippers around the pot and serve at once.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 310 | Protein: 18g | Fat: 22g | Carbs: 5g | Fiber: 0g | Sodium: 420mg