First day of spring — a lie, technically, because astronomical spring and Hartford spring are not the same season. Astronomical spring is March 21. Hartford spring is mid-April at the earliest. But the crocuses were up on Tuesday in the front yard, purple and yellow and defiant, pushing through last week's snow, and I stood at the kitchen window with my coffee and watched them and I thought: there you are. I missed you.
Sunday I made ensalada de coditos. Now, mi amor, if you have never had it, you are not ready for it. Elbow macaroni, mayonnaise (Duke's or Kraft — I am not religious about this), diced ham, diced cheddar, sliced green olives stuffed with pimiento, chopped hard-boiled egg, pimientos from the jar, and — this is non-negotiable — a single diced apple, because Puerto Rican macaroni salad has an apple in it, and if yours does not, yours is wrong. The apple is the secret. The apple is why gringos always ask me what my macaroni salad is doing differently. The apple is doing it.
Sunday dinner was fourteen people — the regular crew plus Sofía's friend Marisa, who Sofía has known since high school and who is now considering applying to nursing school too, maybe, and who came to my kitchen on Sunday to absorb the vibes. I made the ensalada de coditos and the arroz con pollo and the maduros (fried ripe plantains, sweet, caramelized, the color of marigolds), and Marisa watched me work for an hour before asking a single question, which is the mark of a person who will do well in nursing school. She observes first. She asks after.
Wednesday Mami had a bad day. She asked about Papi twice — where is Miguel, when is he coming home — and I said, "He is at work, Mami," because what else do you say? The answer "he died in 2010" would not land. The question "how do you think you know where Papi is" would wound. So: he is at work. Eduardo drove me home and I stared at the dashboard and I did not cry because I did not have the energy.
Thursday she was fine. Lucid, loud, critical of my coffee. Thursday is the whiplash.
Friday Sofía came over after her shift. We sat at the kitchen table and I quizzed her on the prerequisite anatomy material she is reviewing before June. The radial artery. The flexor carpi. The names I did not know and pretended I knew. Sofía patted my hand and said, "Ma, you do not need to pretend. I know you do not know the radial artery." I said, "I ran a hospital cafeteria for thirty-four years, Sofía, I have seen the radial artery on an X-ray. Of a meatloaf. Do not underestimate me." She laughed. We kept going. Wepa.
If you made it through fourteen people at your table, a mother’s bad Wednesday, and a Friday anatomy quiz you absolutely did not study for — you have earned the right to share the recipe. The ensalada de coditos is the thing people always ask about, the dish that makes Marisa lean against the counter and just watch. This Cheddar Spirals recipe captures that same creamy, cheesy, deeply satisfying pasta salad energy: make it ahead, let it chill, and let it do the work of holding everyone together while you do everything else.
Cheddar Spirals
Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 10 min | Total Time: 30 min + 1 hr chilling | Servings: 12
Ingredients
- 1 lb spiral (rotini) pasta
- 2 cups mayonnaise (Duke’s or Kraft)
- 1 tablespoon yellow mustard
- 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/2 teaspoon onion powder
- Salt and black pepper to taste
- 2 cups sharp cheddar cheese, diced into small cubes
- 1 cup diced cooked ham
- 3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
- 1/2 cup sliced green olives stuffed with pimiento
- 1/2 cup diced pimientos, drained
- 1 medium apple (such as Gala or Fuji), peeled and finely diced
- 1/4 cup finely diced red onion
- 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped (optional)
Instructions
- Cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook spiral pasta according to package directions until al dente, about 8–10 minutes. Drain, rinse under cold water to stop cooking, and let cool completely.
- Make the dressing. In a large bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, mustard, apple cider vinegar, sugar, garlic powder, and onion powder. Season generously with salt and black pepper.
- Combine. Add the cooled pasta to the bowl with the dressing and toss to coat evenly.
- Fold in the mix-ins. Gently fold in the cheddar cubes, diced ham, chopped hard-boiled eggs, green olives, pimientos, diced apple, and red onion. Stir until everything is evenly distributed.
- Chill. Cover the bowl tightly and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or overnight. The pasta will absorb some of the dressing — stir in an extra spoonful of mayonnaise before serving if needed to loosen it up.
- Taste and serve. Before bringing to the table, taste for seasoning and adjust salt, pepper, or vinegar as needed. Garnish with fresh parsley if desired. Serve cold.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 420 | Protein: 13g | Fat: 26g | Carbs: 34g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 520mg