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Chicken Pot Pie Crumble — The Crust That Shattered, the Filling That Held

March. Spring is a rumor that Kentucky starts telling in March and doesn't prove until April. The crocuses are up — small purple soldiers announcing the offensive — and the construction site is thawing, which means mud, which means my boots weigh more than my principles and my back weighs more than my will to stand upright.

Clay is running. Every morning, five AM, before school. Running in the dark, in the cold, on the streets of south Lexington where the streetlights are sparse and the sidewalks are cracked. He comes home drenched, eats four eggs and toast and orange juice, showers, and goes to school. He's transforming. The football body is becoming something leaner, more functional. He's not building muscle for tackles anymore. He's building endurance for whatever comes next. I watch the transformation and I see Earl — not the specific Earl, but the principle of Earl: a man reshaping himself for the work that needs doing. The body serves the mission. The mission serves the family. The family serves the future.

My birthday is coming. Fifty. I don't want to talk about it. I will talk about it because this blog is about talking about things I don't want to talk about, but I want to register my objection. Fifty sounds like a number that arrives in the mail with a pamphlet about retirement communities and a coupon for reading glasses. I am not retired. I do wear reading glasses, but only at home, and only for the small print on medicine bottles, and if anyone asks, I don't.

In preparation for turning fifty, I'm making something ambitious: a whole smoked brisket for the birthday dinner, because if I'm going to be half a century old, the food should match the occasion in scale and seriousness. The brisket is the mountain. I'm going into it. I'll come out the other side with fourteen hours of smoke on my clothes and a birthday I didn't want and a decade of my fifties stretching ahead of me like an unfinished highway.

But first, this week: I made chicken potpie. From scratch. The filling: butter, flour, milk, chicken broth — a béchamel base with shredded chicken, peas, carrots, corn, diced potato, onion, celery. Seasoned with thyme, salt, pepper. Poured into a deep dish and topped with a homemade pie crust (lard crust, the good kind, the flaky kind). Baked at 400 for thirty-five minutes until the crust is golden and the filling is bubbling through the slits I cut in the top.

Chicken potpie is not an Appalachian recipe specifically — it's everywhere, it belongs to everyone — but Betty made it and it's in the rotation and it tastes like a meal that a mother would make for a son who's about to turn fifty and doesn't feel fifty and wishes the calendar would slow down. The crust shattered. The filling was creamy. The chicken was tender. Clay ate half the pie, because of course he did, and said "You should make this more often." I should. I will. Time is short and the pie is good and some things shouldn't wait.

This is the pie from the story — the one I made the week before I turn fifty, the one Clay demolished without ceremony, the one that tasted like something a mother would make for a son who needs steadying. I used a lard crust because lard is the honest choice, the flaky choice, the choice that makes the crust shatter instead of bend, and right now I want things that shatter cleanly rather than hold on too long. The recipe below is what went into that deep dish: a proper béchamel base, shredded chicken, every vegetable that belongs in a potpie, and a top crust with slits cut wide enough to let the filling breathe.

Chicken Pot Pie Crumble

Prep Time: 35 min | Cook Time: 35 min | Total Time: 1 hr 10 min | Servings: 6

Ingredients

Lard Pie Crust

  • 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 3/4 cup cold lard, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  • 6–8 tablespoons ice water

Filling

  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 medium yellow onion, diced
  • 2 stalks celery, diced
  • 2 medium carrots, peeled and diced
  • 1 medium Yukon Gold potato, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 1/2 cups whole milk
  • 1 1/2 cups chicken broth
  • 3 cups cooked chicken, shredded (rotisserie works fine)
  • 1 cup frozen peas
  • 1 cup frozen corn
  • 1 teaspoon dried thyme
  • 1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1 egg, beaten (for crust wash)

Instructions

  1. Make the crust. Whisk together flour, salt, and sugar in a large bowl. Add cold lard pieces and work them in with your fingers or a pastry cutter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs with some pea-sized pieces remaining. Drizzle in ice water one tablespoon at a time, stirring with a fork, until the dough just comes together. Divide in two, flatten into discs, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate at least 30 minutes.
  2. Parboil the potato. Place diced potato in a small saucepan, cover with cold salted water, and bring to a boil. Cook 5 minutes until just barely tender. Drain and set aside.
  3. Build the filling. Melt butter in a large heavy-bottomed skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion, celery, and carrots. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 6–8 minutes. Add garlic and cook 1 minute more.
  4. Make the béchamel base. Sprinkle flour over the vegetables and stir to coat. Cook 2 minutes to eliminate the raw flour taste. Slowly pour in milk and then chicken broth, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5–7 minutes.
  5. Finish the filling. Stir in shredded chicken, parboiled potato, peas, corn, thyme, salt, and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning. Remove from heat and let cool slightly, about 10 minutes. The filling should be thick — it will loosen as it bakes.
  6. Preheat and prep. Preheat oven to 400°F. On a lightly floured surface, roll out one dough disc into a circle large enough to line a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate with some overhang. Lay it in, pressing gently into the corners. Pour the filling in evenly.
  7. Top and seal. Roll out the second dough disc and lay it over the filling. Trim both crusts to about 1/2-inch overhang, then fold and crimp the edges to seal. Brush the top crust with beaten egg. Cut four or five 1-inch slits in the top to vent steam.
  8. Bake. Place the pie on a foil-lined baking sheet (to catch any bubble-over). Bake at 400°F for 35–40 minutes, until the crust is deep golden brown and the filling is visibly bubbling through the slits. If the edges brown too quickly, tent them loosely with foil after 20 minutes.
  9. Rest before cutting. Let the pie rest at least 15 minutes before slicing. The filling will set up slightly and hold its shape instead of running. It’s worth the wait.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 620 | Protein: 32g | Fat: 31g | Carbs: 54g | Fiber: 4g | Sodium: 740mg

Craig Hensley
About the cook who shared this
Craig Hensley
Week 102 of Craig’s 30-year story · Lexington, Kentucky
Craig is a retired coal miner from Harlan County, Kentucky — a man who spent twenty years underground and seventeen hours trapped in a collapsed tunnel before he was twenty-four. He moved his family to Lexington when the mine closed, learned to cook his mama Betty's Appalachian recipes from memory because she never wrote them down, and now he's trying to get them on paper before they're lost. He says "reckon" and "fixing to" and means both. His bourbon-glazed ribs are, according to his wife Connie, "acceptable" — which is the highest praise she gives.

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