June. The restaurant's first month is done. Let me give you the numbers because the numbers tell the story:
Total revenue, May 2021: $88,000. Total expenses: $62,000. Net profit: $26,000.
Twenty-six thousand dollars profit in the first month. That's more than I made in two months selling restaurant equipment. The dream is paying the bills. The fish sauce is paying the mortgage.
The breakdown: brisket accounts for 42% of revenue. Pho accounts for 28%. The rest splits between grilled items, spring rolls, desserts, and sauce sales. Emma's desserts — the tiramisu, the crème brûlée, the panna cotta — punch above their weight at 11% of revenue with the highest margins in the kitchen.
The staff is solid. Diego has learned to run the grill station without supervision. Priya has hired a second server — a UH student named Marcus who is not the AA Marcus but who is equally reliable. Tyler runs the smoker like a maestro runs an orchestra — he knows every temperature, every draft, every sound the fire makes.
Emma graduated high school on June 3rd. Elsik High School, the same school Tyler graduated from, the same school I graduated from in 1992. Three Trans, three diplomas, same gymnasium. Emma walked across the stage in her cap and gown and I sat in the bleachers between Christine and Ma and I clapped until my hands stung, just like I did for Tyler.
Her GPA: 4.3 weighted. Valedictorian of the cooking club (yes, that's a thing). The girl who signed me up for RecipeSpinoff at twelve is now a high school graduate heading to UH in the fall, and she's the sous chef of a restaurant that grossed $88,000 in its first month.
Ma gave her a red envelope with $100 — double the standard grandmother rate. "For being first in the kitchen," Ma said. Emma hugged her. Ma let the hug happen for three full seconds, which from Mai Tran is an eternity of affection.
After the ceremony: dinner at Smoke and Fish Sauce. The whole family. I closed the restaurant for one night — the only night it's been closed since opening — and we ate at our own tables. Brisket, pho, spring rolls, crème brûlée. The food we make for strangers, made for ourselves.
Emma stood in the kitchen — her kitchen — and raised a La Croix and said, "To the restaurant." We all raised our cans. To the restaurant. To the family. To the fire.
That night we closed the restaurant for Emma, I wanted something on the table that felt effortless—something that let everyone slow down and just be together instead of working the line. Cold sesame peanut noodles are what I reach for when the celebration is already happening and the food just needs to show up. The peanut sauce has that same depth and punch that fish sauce gives pho—savory, a little funky, unmistakably itself—and Emma, who once told me at age twelve that “noodles are the universal language,” had two bowls. That’s the endorsement that matters.
Cold Sesame Peanut Noodles
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 10 min | Total Time: 25 min | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 12 oz lo mein noodles or spaghetti
- 1/3 cup creamy peanut butter
- 3 tablespoons soy sauce
- 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
- 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
- 1 tablespoon honey
- 2 teaspoons chili garlic sauce (or sriracha), plus more to taste
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger
- 3–4 tablespoons warm water, to thin the sauce
- 2 green onions, thinly sliced
- 1 medium cucumber, julienned or thinly sliced
- 1 cup shredded purple cabbage
- 1/4 cup shredded carrots
- 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
- Fresh cilantro, for garnish (optional)
- Crushed roasted peanuts, for garnish
Instructions
- Cook the noodles. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook noodles according to package directions until al dente. Drain, rinse thoroughly under cold water, and toss with a drizzle of sesame oil to prevent sticking. Set aside.
- Make the peanut sauce. In a medium bowl, whisk together peanut butter, soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil, honey, chili garlic sauce, garlic, and ginger until smooth. Add warm water one tablespoon at a time until the sauce is pourable but still thick—about the consistency of heavy cream.
- Taste and adjust. Give the sauce a taste. Add more chili garlic sauce for heat, soy sauce for saltiness, or honey to balance. The sauce should be bold—it will mellow once it coats the noodles.
- Toss the noodles. Add the cooled noodles to a large serving bowl. Pour the peanut sauce over the top and toss well until every noodle is coated. If the noodles seem too dry, add another splash of warm water or a little extra sesame oil.
- Add the vegetables. Layer the cucumber, purple cabbage, and shredded carrots over the noodles. Scatter the green onions and sesame seeds across the top.
- Garnish and serve. Finish with crushed peanuts and fresh cilantro if using. Serve immediately at room temperature, or refrigerate up to 2 hours and serve cold. Toss again just before serving.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 480 | Protein: 16g | Fat: 18g | Carbs: 65g | Fiber: 4g | Sodium: 820mg
About the cook who shared this
Bobby Tran
Week 265 of Bobby’s 30-year story
· Houston, Texas
Bobby Tran was born in a refugee camp in Arkansas to parents who fled Saigon with nothing. He grew up in Houston straddling two worlds — Vietnamese at home, Texan everywhere else — and learned to cook from his mother's pho and a neighbor's BBQ smoker. He's a former shrimper, a recovering alcoholic, a divorced dad of three, and the guy who marinates brisket in fish sauce and lemongrass because he doesn't believe in borders, especially when it comes to flavor.