Coleslaw for 50 — The Side That Always Has a Seat at the Table

March 2022. Spring in Memphis, and I am 63, watching the azaleas and dogwoods bloom along my neighborhood walk, the annual resurrection that makes the winter worth surviving. The smoker wakes up in spring the way the whole city wakes up — slowly, with a stretch, then fully, with purpose.

Tyrone came over for dominoes, bringing his competitive spirit and his inability to play without cheating, and the evening was full of the brotherly banter that is our love language.

I made smoked chicken this week — a simple cook that belies its depth. Rubbed with salt, pepper, garlic, and paprika, smoked at 275 over hickory for three hours. The skin was mahogany, the meat juicy, and the first bite carried the kind of flavor that makes you close your eyes, which is the highest compliment food can earn: the involuntary closing of the eyes, the body's admission that what it's tasting is too good to see.

Another week in the book. Another seven days of tending fires — the one in the smoker, the one in the marriage, the one in the family, the one in the church. Each fire needs something different: wood, attention, food, faith. But the tending is the same for all of them: show up, add what's needed, wait patiently, trust the process. Low and slow. Always. Low and slow.

Every fire needs something to balance it — the smoker gives you heat and smoke and mahogany skin, and what it needs beside it on the table is something cool and crisp and steady. When Tyrone comes over and the dominoes are out and the evening stretches long, I want a side that works for everybody, that can sit patient on the table without asking for anything. This coleslaw is that side. Low maintenance, high reward — just like the best people I know.

Coleslaw for 50

Prep Time: 30 min | Cook Time: 0 min | Total Time: 1 hr (includes chilling) | Servings: 50

Ingredients

• 5 medium heads green cabbage (about 20 cups shredded)
• 2 medium heads red cabbage (about 8 cups shredded)
• 8 large carrots, peeled and grated
• 1 large white onion, finely minced
• 4 cups mayonnaise
• 3/4 cup apple cider vinegar
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 3 tablespoons celery seed
• 2 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon dry mustard

Instructions

1. Shred the cabbage. Quarter and core all heads of cabbage, then slice as thinly as possible by hand or with a food processor fitted with the slicing blade. Transfer to the largest mixing bowls or a clean cooler you have — the volume is real.
2. Grate the carrots. Using a box grater or food processor, grate all 8 carrots on the large holes. Add to the cabbage along with the minced onion and toss to combine.
3. Make the dressing. In a medium bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, apple cider vinegar, sugar, celery seed, salt, black pepper, and dry mustard until the sugar and salt are fully dissolved and the dressing is smooth.
4. Dress and toss. Pour the dressing over the cabbage mixture in thirds, folding thoroughly between each addition to ensure every strand is evenly coated. Taste and adjust salt or vinegar as needed.
5. Chill before serving. Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes — ideally 1 hour — before serving. The cabbage will release some liquid and the flavors will settle and deepen. Toss once more just before setting it on the table.
6. Serve. Transfer to a large serving bowl or keep in the cooler for outdoor gatherings. This holds well for up to 4 hours at the table and up to 3 days covered in the refrigerator.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 110 | Protein: 1g | Fat: 9g | Carbs: 7g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 210mg