Memorial Day weekend. We did not go to Twin Falls this year — I'm not up for the four-hour round trip, and Dad came to us instead. Just Dad. Mom stayed home because someone had to tend the garden (the real reason) and because she thought Gary and I needed time without her orchestrating (the actual reason, unspoken, understood). Dad drove himself, which worried Mom and impressed me, because Gary Dawson at sixty-nine with bad knees driving two hours on I-84 is an act of stubborn love disguised as transportation.
He looked older. I hadn't seen him since Christmas, and the gap showed — more stooped, thinner, his hands gnarled and spotted. But his eyes were the same: clear, steady, seeing everything, saying little. He hugged me at the door and held on longer than Gary Dawson usually holds on, and I felt his hands on my back and thought about all the things those hands have done — calved cattle, fixed fences, held a broken boy's hand in a hospital, signed away land he loved to pay for it — and I held on too.
He sat in the backyard with Mason and showed him how to whittle a stick with a pocketknife, which I would have objected to except that Mason was riveted and Gary was careful and the scene — old man and small boy on a porch step, the curl of wood shavings on the ground — was so perfectly, specifically Idaho that I let it be. Lily sat in Gary's lap and told him about every horse she's ever seen, which is a comprehensive list that she maintains with the precision of an archivist. Gary listened to all of it. Gary has always listened.
I grilled steaks for Memorial Day dinner. Not ranch beef — Winco beef, the compromise we've all made — but good steaks, seasoned simply, cooked on Gary's scale of doneness (medium-rare, the only acceptable answer, all other answers are wrong). Dad ate his steak and said, "That's a good piece of meat," which from Gary is a Yelp review of five stars. Scott ate alone, later, reheated, because he'd gone to the garage during dinner. I didn't ask why. Dad noticed. Dad sees everything. Dad said nothing, because Gary Dawson does not interfere in his children's marriages. He interferes in steaks and fence posts and nothing else.
Before he left Sunday, Dad stood in the driveway and said, "You look good, kid." I said, "Thanks, Dad." He said, "I mean it. You look like yourself again." And then he got in his truck and drove two hours home, and I stood in the driveway until he was gone, the way I've stood in driveways my whole life watching Dawson men leave — Brett to the hospital, Kyle to the Army, Dad to wherever the cattle needed him — and I thought about how leaving and coming back is the rhythm of this family, and how the coming back is always the part that matters.
Dad gave the steak five stars — that’s the Gary Dawson equivalent of a standing ovation — but every good steak deserves something alongside it that holds its own, and this deviled egg pasta salad has been earning its place on my Memorial Day table for years. It’s the dish I make the morning before people arrive, the one that sits quietly in the fridge doing its work while I’m out at the grill, and it tastes exactly like summer in Idaho: simple, no-fuss, honest. If you’re feeding someone who drives two hours just to sit in your backyard, you make them a plate with something that feels like it belongs there.
Deviled Egg Pasta Salad
Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 15 min | Total Time: 35 min (plus 1 hr chilling) | Servings: 8
Ingredients
- 12 oz elbow macaroni or small shell pasta
- 8 large eggs, hard-boiled and peeled
- 3/4 cup mayonnaise
- 2 tablespoons yellow mustard
- 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 3/4 teaspoon salt, plus more for pasta water
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika, plus more for garnish
- 3 stalks celery, finely diced
- 1/4 cup sweet pickle relish
- 3 green onions, thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped (optional)
Instructions
- Cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook pasta according to package directions until just al dente — do not overcook, as it will continue to soften as it absorbs the dressing. Drain, rinse with cold water, and spread on a sheet pan to cool completely.
- Prepare the eggs. Slice 2 of the hard-boiled eggs in half and set the yolks aside. Roughly chop the whites and the remaining 6 whole eggs into bite-sized pieces. Keep the reserved yolks separate.
- Make the dressing. In a large bowl, mash the reserved egg yolks with a fork until crumbly. Whisk in the mayonnaise, mustard, apple cider vinegar, sugar, salt, pepper, and smoked paprika until smooth and creamy.
- Combine. Add the cooled pasta, chopped eggs, celery, sweet pickle relish, and green onions to the bowl with the dressing. Fold gently until everything is evenly coated. Taste and adjust salt, pepper, or mustard as needed.
- Chill. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving — 2 to 3 hours is better. The pasta will absorb the dressing and the flavors will come together as it sits.
- Serve. Transfer to a serving bowl, dust the top with a pinch of smoked paprika, and scatter parsley over if using. Serve cold straight from the fridge.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 390 | Protein: 12g | Fat: 21g | Carbs: 38g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 480mg