Christmas week. The same Capitol Hill lights, the same Bellevue preparations, the same Karen orchestrating the meal like a conductor with a whisk. But this year the Korean contributions are expected, not surprising. Karen called to ask, "What are you bringing?" and I said, "Japchae, tteokguk, and galbi-tang," and she said, "I'll make sure there's room on the table." Room on the table. Two years ago, the table held only American food. Now Karen makes room. The making-room is the metaphor for everything.
I prepped all week. The galbi-tang requires short ribs soaked in cold water for hours to draw out the blood (a Korean technique for achieving a clear broth), then simmered for three to four hours until the broth is rich and the meat tender. I started the broth on Saturday morning and let it simmer while I made japchae and tteokguk. Three Korean dishes, prepared simultaneously, my kitchen a production facility of Korean holiday food. The apartment smelled like a Korean household preparing for a celebration, and the smell was the identity, the smell was the belonging, the smell was Korea brought home to Capitol Hill and installed in a galley kitchen with a Zojirushi and three onggi pots.
Gifts: For Karen, a set of Korean banchan dishes — small, elegant, ceramic, from a potter on Etsy who specializes in Korean tableware. For David, a subscription to a Korean snack box (monthly Korean treats delivered to Bellevue — David's snack education continues). For Kevin, more coffee beans and a framed photo I had printed of our Korean BBQ Fourth of July — David and Kevin at the grill, galbi smoke rising, the picture of a family that didn't know it was becoming Korean.
For myself: I bought a ticket to Korea. Not a specific trip — an open-ended, one-way ticket purchase from Korean Air's flexible booking system. I can book travel for any date in 2018. The ticket is a commitment to going back. Not a plan — a commitment. I'll go back. I don't know when, I don't know for how long, I don't know if I'll search for my birth mother. But I'll go back. The ticket is on my fridge, next to the H Mart receipts and the Duolingo screenshot and the Post-it with Dr. Yoon's number that's been there for over a year. The fridge door is the map of my identity: Korean groceries, Korean therapy, Korean travel. The fridge tells the story.
The Korean language exchange with Mina continued this week — a holiday-themed conversation where she told me about Korean Christmas traditions (Korea celebrates Christmas, though it's not as big as Seollal). She said, "When you come back to Korea, come during Seollal. That's the real holiday." Seollal — Korean Lunar New Year, in January or February. The holiday when families gather and eat tteokguk and wear hanbok and bow to their elders. I've never celebrated Seollal. I've never worn hanbok. I've never bowed to an elder on New Year's. These are the traditions I missed, the ones that can't be replicated in a Capitol Hill condo. But they can be experienced in Korea, at Seollal, if I go back. When I go back. The ticket is on the fridge. The going is certain. The when is the only variable.
Of the three dishes I prepped that week, the galbi-tang was the one that anchored everything—the one that filled my apartment with that unmistakable Korean kitchen smell while the japchae and tteokguk came together beside it. It’s the kind of recipe that asks for your patience (hours of soaking, hours of simmering) and rewards you with a broth so clear and deep you wonder how something so simple can hold so much. Karen made room on the table for it, and honestly, it earned its place. Here’s how I make it.
Galbi-Tang (Korean Short Rib Soup)
Prep Time: 30 minutes (plus 2-3 hours soaking) | Cook Time: 3-4 hours | Total Time: 6-7 hours | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 3 pounds bone-in beef short ribs (English cut, about 2-inch pieces)
- 16 cups cold water, plus more for soaking
- 1 large Korean radish (mu), about 1 pound, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
- 6 cloves garlic, whole
- 1 medium onion, halved
- 2 green onions (scallions), cut into 2-inch pieces, plus more sliced thin for garnish
- 1 tablespoon soup soy sauce (guk-ganjang)
- 1 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 egg, beaten (optional, for egg garnish)
- Glass noodles (dangmyeon), small handful, soaked and cut (optional)
Instructions
- Soak the short ribs. Place the short ribs in a large bowl and cover with cold water. Soak for 2 to 3 hours in the refrigerator, changing the water every 30 to 45 minutes. This draws out the blood and impurities, which is essential for achieving a clean, clear broth.
- Blanch the ribs. Drain the soaked ribs and place them in a large stockpot. Cover with fresh cold water, bring to a rolling boil, and cook for 10 minutes. Drain and rinse each rib under cold running water, scrubbing off any scum or residue. Rinse the pot clean.
- Build the broth. Return the cleaned ribs to the pot and add 16 cups of cold water. Add the whole garlic cloves, halved onion, and green onion pieces. Bring to a boil over high heat, then immediately reduce to a gentle simmer. Skim any foam that rises to the surface during the first 20 minutes.
- Simmer low and slow. Cover the pot with the lid slightly ajar and simmer on low heat for 2-1/2 to 3 hours, until the meat is very tender and pulling away from the bone. The broth should be milky-white to pale gold and deeply flavorful.
- Add the radish. After 2 hours of simmering, add the Korean radish chunks. Continue simmering until the radish is translucent and tender, about 30 to 45 minutes more.
- Season the broth. Remove and discard the onion halves and green onion pieces. Stir in the soup soy sauce, salt, and black pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning—the broth should be clean and savory without being heavy.
- Prepare optional garnishes. If using glass noodles, soak them in warm water for 15 minutes, drain, and cut into manageable lengths. Add them to the simmering broth for 3 to 4 minutes until soft. For the egg garnish, cook the beaten egg in a lightly oiled nonstick pan as a thin omelet, then slice into thin strips.
- Serve. Ladle the soup into large bowls, making sure each serving gets short ribs, radish, and plenty of broth. Garnish with sliced scallions and egg strips. Serve steaming hot with rice on the side.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 380 | Protein: 28g | Fat: 24g | Carbs: 12g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 490mg