June in Oceanside. The hydrangeas are blooming along the front walk, and Marvin's garden is producing tomatoes at a rate that suggests the plants have something to prove. He brings them in by the basketful — Romas, beefsteaks, cherry tomatoes so red they look painted — and sets them on the kitchen counter like offerings at an altar. He does not say "make something." He does not need to. We have been married thirty-four years. The tomatoes speak for themselves.
I made fresh tomato sauce this week. Not from a jar — I have never made sauce from a jar, and if Sylvia were alive and discovered I had made sauce from a jar, she would have sat shiva for my culinary soul. Fresh sauce: tomatoes blanched and peeled, garlic from the Italian market on Long Beach Road, basil from the herb pot on the windowsill that I maintain with the kind of devotion I once reserved for lesson plans. The sauce simmered for two hours. The house smelled like Italy by way of the Grand Concourse, which is exactly what the Bronx smelled like in July — Jewish families making Italian food and Italian families making Jewish food and everyone pretending they'd invented each other's recipes.
I wrote a blog post about cooking across cultures — how Ashkenazi Jews in the Bronx didn't just preserve their own food, they absorbed their neighbors'. Sylvia's red sauce was indistinguishable from Mrs. Caruso's next door, and Mrs. Caruso's chicken soup was suspiciously similar to Sylvia's. They never discussed this. They exchanged dishes over the hallway and accepted the cultural exchange as silently as they accepted the seasons. I think about this when people talk about food as identity — yes, food is identity, but identity is porous. We are who we eat. We eat who we live beside.
Sophie is three months old and has started laughing. Jennifer sent a video. The laugh is David's laugh — sudden, surprised, as if the world has just told a joke she didn't see coming. I played the video four times and then made Marvin watch it twice. He said, "She sounds like you when something's actually funny." I said, "As opposed to when I laugh at your jokes?" He said, "Exactly." This is marriage at its finest — an insult wrapped in a compliment wrapped in thirty-four years of knowing exactly where the other person is ticklish.
The tomatoes keep coming. The sauce keeps simmering. Summer is a season of abundance, and I intend to can every bit of it.
The tomatoes keep coming, and so does the need to do something worthy of them — something that feels like abundance made intentional. With Sophie’s laugh still playing on a loop in my head and summer pressing against every window, I wanted a dish that was generous and warm and just a little bit triumphant. This garlic basil chicken with tomato butter sauce is exactly that: fresh tomatoes turned silky and rich, the kind of thing you make when the garden is giving and the house is full of good feeling.
Garlic Basil Chicken with Tomato Butter Sauce
Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cook Time: 35 minutes | Total Time: 50 minutes | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 6–8 oz each), pounded to even thickness
- 2 lbs fresh ripe tomatoes (Roma or beefsteak), cored and roughly chopped
- 6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
- 1 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves, plus more for serving
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
- 1/2 teaspoon sugar (only if tomatoes need balancing)
Instructions
- Season the chicken. Pat the chicken breasts dry with paper towels. Season both sides generously with salt and black pepper. Let them sit at room temperature for 10 minutes while you prep the sauce ingredients.
- Sear the chicken. Heat 1 tablespoon of butter and the olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the chicken and sear without moving for 5–6 minutes, until deeply golden on the bottom. Flip and sear the other side for 4–5 minutes. Transfer to a plate — the chicken will finish in the sauce.
- Bloom the garlic. Reduce heat to medium. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter to the same skillet. Once melted, add the sliced garlic and red pepper flakes if using. Cook, stirring frequently, for 1–2 minutes until fragrant and just beginning to turn golden. Do not let it brown.
- Build the tomato sauce. Add the chopped fresh tomatoes to the skillet along with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Stir to combine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom. Raise heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, for 12–15 minutes until the tomatoes have completely broken down and the sauce has thickened. If the tomatoes taste flat, add the 1/2 teaspoon sugar and stir. Taste and adjust salt.
- Finish the chicken in the sauce. Nestle the seared chicken breasts back into the sauce. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook for 8–10 minutes until the chicken is cooked through and registers 165°F at the thickest part.
- Add the basil and serve. Tear the basil leaves directly into the pan and stir them gently into the sauce around the chicken. Let the pan rest off the heat for 2 minutes. Serve the chicken with plenty of sauce spooned over the top, with crusty bread, pasta, or polenta alongside.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 375 | Protein: 44g | Fat: 17g | Carbs: 11g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 430mg