January 2021. The vaccine rollout begins. Healthcare workers first. Then the elderly and vulnerable. Ma is in the queue — over seventy, with a pre-existing condition. Linh is managing the logistics because Linh manages all medical logistics in this family.
Ma's appointment: February 8th. Six weeks away. Six weeks of continuing the precautions, the mask-wearing, the temple walks at a distance. Six weeks until a needle and a dose and the beginning of the end of this nightmare.
The restaurant build-out resumes this month. I went to the space on Saturday with Tyler. We swept the dust, checked the equipment, and started the finish work: installing the service window between the kitchen and dining room, mounting the exhaust fan for the smoker pass-through, and painting the accent wall behind the bar.
The accent wall color: deep red. The same red as Ma's ao dai. Emma chose it. "Red is lucky," she said. "And it's the first thing people will see when they walk in."
Red is lucky. In Vietnamese culture, red is the color of prosperity, of celebration, of Tet envelopes and wedding dresses and the things you wrap around the things you love. The restaurant will have a red wall. And on that wall: the sign.
Lily has finalized the sign design. The logo — the smoker with Vietnamese text above and English below — printed on a wooden panel, stained dark, mounted on the red wall. "Khói vá N╞░ß╗¢c Mß║»m — Smoke and Fish Sauce — Bobby Tran BBQ." It's being fabricated by a sign company in the Heights. Cost: $1,200. Worth: immeasurable.
I stood in front of the bare red wall and imagined the sign. The sign that says: a man who started with nothing — no degree, no restaurant experience, no sobriety — built this with fish sauce and stubbornness and a family that cooks.
The sign isn't up yet. But the wall is red. And the dream is real.
Made my first brisket of 2021 on Sunday. Post oak and cherry. Fish sauce marinade. Lemongrass finishing butter. The recipe that won first place. The recipe that started on a barrel smoker in Alief with a man named Mr. Clarence and a Vietnamese woman who wanted to learn.
The fire is burning. 2021. The year it all comes together.
Sunday’s smoke session reminded me that the best things — the sign, the vaccine, the restaurant — all take time and heat and patience. While the championship brisket rested, I kept thinking about the fundamentals: beef, garlic, fire, time. That’s the same foundation behind this Garlic Pot Roast, the low-and-slow beef recipe I come back to when I need a reminder that the process is the point. It’s not the brisket, but it’s got the same soul — deeply savory, built on patience, the kind of thing Mr. Clarence would’ve nodded at.
Garlic Pot Roast
Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 3 hr 30 min | Total Time: 3 hr 50 min | Servings: 8
Ingredients
- 3 to 4 lb beef chuck roast
- 8 cloves garlic, peeled and halved lengthwise
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
- 1 large yellow onion, roughly chopped
- 3 medium carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces
- 3 stalks celery, cut into 2-inch pieces
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 1 cup beef broth
- 1/2 cup dry red wine (or additional broth)
- 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
- 2 bay leaves
Instructions
- Preheat and prep. Preheat your oven to 325°F. Using a small paring knife, cut 16 small slits about 1 inch deep all over the surface of the chuck roast. Push a halved garlic clove into each slit.
- Season the roast. In a small bowl, combine salt, pepper, smoked paprika, and thyme. Rub the mixture evenly over all sides of the roast.
- Sear the beef. Heat olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the roast and sear without moving it for 4–5 minutes per side, until a deep brown crust forms. Transfer the roast to a plate.
- Build the base. Reduce heat to medium. Add onion, carrots, and celery to the pot. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes until softened. Stir in tomato paste and cook for 1 minute until it darkens slightly.
- Deglaze. Pour in the red wine and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Add the beef broth, rosemary sprigs, and bay leaves. Bring to a simmer.
- Braise low and slow. Return the seared roast to the pot. The liquid should come about one-third of the way up the sides of the meat. Cover tightly with a lid and transfer to the oven. Cook for 3 to 3.5 hours, until the beef is fork-tender and falling apart.
- Rest and serve. Remove the pot from the oven. Discard the rosemary sprigs and bay leaves. Let the roast rest uncovered for 10 minutes before slicing or pulling. Serve with the braising vegetables and pan juices spooned over the top.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 380 | Protein: 42g | Fat: 19g | Carbs: 8g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 420mg
About the cook who shared this
Bobby Tran
Week 243 of Bobby’s 30-year story
· Houston, Texas
Bobby Tran was born in a refugee camp in Arkansas to parents who fled Saigon with nothing. He grew up in Houston straddling two worlds — Vietnamese at home, Texan everywhere else — and learned to cook from his mother's pho and a neighbor's BBQ smoker. He's a former shrimper, a recovering alcoholic, a divorced dad of three, and the guy who marinates brisket in fish sauce and lemongrass because he doesn't believe in borders, especially when it comes to flavor.