Grilled Country-Style Ribs

Fourth of July on Castle Island. The family assembled at 3 PM. The Donovan blanket — Maureen's big red-and-white picnic blanket that has been in the family since before I was born — was laid out, and the food was unpacked, and the entire assemblage was on the grass with a view of the harbor and a perimeter of cousins. Maureen had made her potato salad, which I had supplemented with mine (as a compromise between the two versions, which have been in friendly competition for a decade). My mother's is mayonnaise-heavy and traditional. Mine has dill and capers and a little white wine vinegar. Both were eaten. She nodded at mine. I nodded at hers. The competition is maintained without acknowledgment, which is the way it has to run.

Sean was in good spirits. He picked up Sean III and walked him along the grass for half an hour while Colleen ate two servings of everything. He played with Liam and Aidan and a neighbor kid they had recruited. He swam (briefly, the water is still cold in early July). He grilled hot dogs for the kids. He made a toast to Sean Sr. at 5 PM with a beer in his hand. He was entirely himself.

I am going to remember this afternoon. I am going to remember it specifically because it was ordinary and because I am aware that I am making a mental photograph of it. I do not know what the consult Monday will bring. I am not pretending I do. I am also telling myself that whatever it brings, it will not take this afternoon. This afternoon happened. It has already happened. It is inside me now. The photograph is mine.

Nora ate corn on the cob for the first time. She received it, evaluated it, decided it could be held with two hands, and bit it like a small woodchuck. She got corn on her face. She got corn in her hair. She ate most of the cob and then handed it back to me and said "more." I gave her a second. She ate the second. The corn-on-the-cob era is open. I am ready for it.

We came home at 7 PM. The kids were wrecked. Nora fell asleep in the car. Liam made it into the tub. We did the low-intensity fireworks in the front yard with some sparklers Sean had picked up — Liam held one with both hands and a face of pure solemnity. Nora, half-awake, watched from the front step in her pajamas. Linda came out of her house and stood on her porch with a glass of wine and saluted us from across the grass. We saluted back. The block was sparkling. The city was doing its thing. My family was with me.

At 9:30 Sean and I sat on the front step together. He said "next week." I said "I know." He said "I'm okay." I said "I am too. Today." He said "yes. Today." We sat. The fireworks over the harbor were distant and muted. The air smelled like gunpowder and grass. Liam was inside, already asleep in his bed. Nora was already asleep in hers. Our house behind us. Our yard around us. Our block of Quincy. Linda across the street.

I will write again after the consult. This is the week before. I am keeping it.

Sean grilled the hot dogs for the kids that afternoon, but the grown-ups wanted something with a little more substance—something you could eat slowly on the blanket while watching the harbor and pretending you weren’t going back for seconds. These country-style ribs are what I’ve been bringing to Castle Island the last few summers: smoky, a little sweet, easy enough that you can prep them before you pack the car and just throw them on when you get there. They go with both potato salads. Maureen confirmed this, which is as close to a compliment as the system allows.

Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cook Time: 35 minutes | Total Time: 50 minutes | Servings: 6

Ingredients

3 pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 cup barbecue sauce
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon brown sugar

Instructions

Season the ribs. Pat the ribs dry with paper towels. Rub with olive oil, then season generously on all sides with smoked paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, chili powder, cayenne, salt, and pepper. Let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes while the grill heats.
Prep the glaze. In a small bowl, stir together the barbecue sauce, apple cider vinegar, and brown sugar until combined. Set aside.
Preheat the grill. Heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium heat, about 350–375°F. Oil the grates with a folded paper towel dipped in vegetable oil.
Grill over indirect heat. Place the ribs on the cooler side of the grill. Close the lid and cook for 20 minutes, turning once halfway through.
Glaze and finish. Move the ribs to direct heat. Brush generously with the barbecue glaze and grill for 5–7 minutes per side, basting again after each turn, until the internal temperature reaches 145°F and the glaze is caramelized and sticky.
Rest and serve. Transfer ribs to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve with any remaining glaze on the side.

Nutrition (per serving)

Grilled Country-Style Ribs — The Fourth of July We Kept