Fall has settled over El Paso with the gentleness of a hand on a shoulder. Mornings are cool — sixty degrees, sixty-five — and the bakery kitchen is comfortable for the first time since May. I stand at the counter shaping conchas at 4 AM and the air doesn't fight me, and the dough rises at the right speed instead of the frantic summer speed, and everything is calibrated, the way Rosa's kitchen was calibrated, the way desert life is calibrated: to the season, to the temperature, to the earth's slow turning.
Camila's birthday party is next week. The preparations are escalating. She has revised the setlist twice — dropping "Twinkle, Twinkle" because it's "for babies" (she is turning five and has aged out of twinkle) and adding a song she heard on the radio that she calls "the one about the flowers" which I have not been able to identify from her description. She has rehearsed in the living room every evening this week, using the wooden spoon microphone and a makeshift stage consisting of the coffee table pushed against the couch. Diego operates the "sound system" (a Bluetooth speaker) and Sofia operates the "lighting" (the lamp pointed at the coffee table). Luis Jr. pretends not to watch from the hallway. Isabella takes notes. We are all cast members in the Camila show, and none of us auditioned for the role, but here we are.
The bakery introduced calabaza en tacha this week — candied pumpkin, the traditional Day of the Dead preparation where pumpkin is cooked in piloncillo syrup until it's tender and sweet and glossy. Rosa made this every October, and the smell — piloncillo and cinnamon and the earthy sweetness of cooked pumpkin — is the smell of autumn in the Delgado house. I made it for the bakery display and it sold slowly but steadily, the way tradition sells — not in a rush but in a reliable trickle of people who know what it is and have been waiting for it.
I made rajas con crema this week — roasted poblano strips in a cream sauce with corn kernels, served with rice and tortillas. Rajas are the food of transition — the food you make when the season is changing and the ingredients are changing and the kitchen needs something that is both summer (the corn) and fall (the roasted pepper) at the same time. Rosa made rajas when the first cold front hit Anapra, which happened in October, and the timing was always perfect because Rosa's cooking was synchronized to the weather the way a clock is synchronized to the sun.
Alejandro's birthday is October 1. He turns sixty-seven. I will call. I will say feliz cumpleaños, Papá. He will say gracias. The conversation will be short and the silence in it will be long and the silence will carry everything that neither of us can say: that Rosa should be making his birthday dinner, that she should be standing in the kitchen in Anapra making his favorite meal (carne asada, always carne asada, because Alejandro is a simple man with simple tastes), that without her the birthday is just a number and the number is just a reminder that the years keep coming whether you want them to or not.
Making calabaza en tacha for the bakery this week brought Rosa’s kitchen back to me in the most physical way — the piloncillo melting, the cinnamon steaming, the whole room smelling like October in Anapra. I wanted to carry that pumpkin sweetness into something I could make for the kids on a slow fall morning, something that felt celebratory and seasonal without requiring a full production. These healthy pumpkin spice waffles do exactly that: they smell like the season, they come together before the children fully wake up, and they taste like the kind of thing Rosa would have approved of — nourishing and warm and just sweet enough.
Healthy Pumpkin Spice Waffles
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 20 minutes | Total Time: 30 minutes | Servings: 4 (about 8 waffles)
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour (or white whole wheat flour)
- 2 teaspoons baking powder
- 1 1/2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 1 cup pure pumpkin puree (not pumpkin pie filling)
- 1 cup milk of choice (dairy or unsweetened oat or almond milk)
- 2 large eggs
- 3 tablespoons pure maple syrup or honey
- 2 tablespoons melted coconut oil or neutral oil, plus more for the waffle iron
- 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Instructions
- Preheat the waffle iron. Heat your waffle iron according to its manufacturer’s instructions and brush or spray it lightly with oil.
- Mix the dry ingredients. In a large bowl, whisk together the whole wheat flour, baking powder, pumpkin pie spice, cinnamon, and salt until combined.
- Mix the wet ingredients. In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the pumpkin puree, milk, eggs, maple syrup, melted oil, and vanilla extract until smooth and fully incorporated.
- Combine. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and stir gently until just combined — a few small lumps are fine. Do not overmix or the waffles will be tough.
- Cook the waffles. Pour enough batter onto the prepared waffle iron to fill it (about 1/3 to 1/2 cup per waffle, depending on your iron’s size). Close the lid and cook until the waffle is golden and releases easily, about 4 to 5 minutes. Repeat with remaining batter.
- Serve warm. Serve immediately topped with a drizzle of maple syrup, a sprinkle of cinnamon, or a dollop of plain yogurt. Leftover waffles keep well in the refrigerator for up to 4 days and reheat beautifully in the toaster.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 310 | Protein: 10g | Fat: 10g | Carbs: 47g | Fiber: 6g | Sodium: 290mg