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Meat Lover’s Pizza — The Table We Keep Setting for Her

October 15th. Denise. Thirty-one. She would have been thirty-one. A year older than she was in the imaginary life I carry for her — the one where she's married, maybe, or working, or living, the one where sickle cell was something she managed instead of something that ended her. Thirty-one is such a nothing age, such an ordinary number, and the ordinariness of it is what hurts the most: she would have been ordinary this year, just a woman turning thirty-one, and the ordinary was all I ever wanted for her.

The smoked chicken. The white BBQ sauce. The plate at the table. Walter Jr., Marcus and Angela, Charlie — who drove in from Nashville as she always does, carrying her sister's absence like a candle she won't let go out. Rosetta beside me. The prayer. The first bite that tastes like love and loss in equal measure.

This year Angela set the plate. I didn't ask her to. She just did it — walked to the cabinet, took out the plate, spooned chicken and coleslaw and cornbread onto it, and placed it at Denise's spot with the gentle precision of a woman who understands that this ritual is not optional and that participating in it is how you prove you belong. Marcus watched her do it and his eyes were wet and he didn't say anything and he didn't need to, because Angela setting the plate was Angela saying, "I am part of this family and this family includes a girl I never met and I will honor her because honoring her is honoring all of you." That's a lot to say with a plate. Angela said it perfectly.

After dinner, I sat on the porch alone for an hour. The October night was cool and the stars were out and the neighborhood was quiet, and I talked to Denise in my head — told her about the scholarship, about Angela, about David (who she would have interrogated mercilessly), about Trey and the fire and the smoker and the way the family keeps growing even though she's not here to see it. And I said what I say every year: "I miss you, baby girl. I'll see you next October." And I went inside and locked the door and went to bed and held Rosetta's hand in the dark.

We’ve made the smoked chicken and the white BBQ sauce every October 15th, and we always will — but what I’ve learned is that the specific dish matters less than the act of gathering, of feeding, of putting food on a table and saying this seat is still filled. On the nights between those Octobers, when the family crowds in and the house gets loud the way Denise always loved it, this Meat Lover’s Pizza is what Trey fires up — piled high, built for a crowd, the kind of food that says you are welcome here and there is more than enough. Angela made it last Thanksgiving, uninvited and perfect, and I thought of the plate she set, and I thought of Denise, and I ate two slices and didn’t apologize to anyone.

Meat Lover’s Pizza

Prep Time: 20 minutes | Cook Time: 18 minutes | Total Time: 38 minutes | Servings: 8 slices

Ingredients

  • 1 lb store-bought or homemade pizza dough, room temperature
  • 3/4 cup pizza sauce
  • 2 cups shredded whole-milk mozzarella cheese, divided
  • 1/2 cup shredded provolone cheese
  • 1/2 lb Italian sausage, casings removed, cooked and crumbled
  • 1/2 cup pepperoni slices (about 2 oz)
  • 1/4 cup cooked and crumbled bacon (about 4 strips)
  • 1/4 cup cooked diced ham
  • 1/4 tsp crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • 1/2 tsp garlic powder
  • 1/2 tsp dried oregano
  • Cornmeal, for dusting the pan

Instructions

  1. Preheat and prep. Place a pizza stone or heavy baking sheet in the oven and preheat to 475°F. Allow at least 30 minutes for the stone to fully heat through. Dust a separate baking sheet or pizza peel lightly with cornmeal.
  2. Shape the dough. On a lightly floured surface, stretch or roll the dough into a 12–14 inch round, about 1/4 inch thick. Transfer to the cornmeal-dusted surface. Brush the outer edge of the crust with olive oil and sprinkle with garlic powder and oregano.
  3. Build the sauce layer. Spread the pizza sauce evenly over the dough, leaving a 3/4-inch border around the edge for the crust.
  4. Add the cheese base. Scatter 1 1/2 cups of the mozzarella and all of the provolone evenly over the sauce.
  5. Layer the meats. Distribute the cooked sausage, pepperoni, bacon, and ham evenly across the pizza. Sprinkle the remaining 1/2 cup mozzarella over the top of the meats so they’re anchored by the melted cheese as it bakes.
  6. Bake. Carefully slide or transfer the pizza onto the preheated stone or baking sheet. Bake for 15–18 minutes, until the crust is deep golden, the cheese is bubbling, and the pepperoni edges have crisped slightly.
  7. Rest and slice. Remove from the oven and let rest for 3–5 minutes before slicing. This helps the cheese set so it doesn’t slide off when you cut. Add crushed red pepper flakes to taste before serving.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 420 | Protein: 22g | Fat: 21g | Carbs: 36g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 980mg

Earl Johnson
About the cook who shared this
Earl Johnson
Week 117 of Earl’s 30-year story · Memphis, Tennessee
Earl "Big E" Johnson is a sixty-seven-year-old retired postal carrier, a forty-two-year husband, and a Memphis BBQ legend who learned to smoke pork shoulder at his Uncle Clyde's stand when he was eleven years old. He lost his daughter Denise to sickle cell disease at twenty-three, and he honors her every year by smoking her favorite meal on her birthday and setting a plate at the table. His dry rub uses sixteen spices he keeps in a mayonnaise jar. He will not share the recipe. Not even with Rosetta.

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