August in Hartford and the hospital cafeteria is in back-to-school preparation mode, which sounds strange but makes sense when I explain: every September, the hospital gets busier because school starts and teachers send home sick kids and parents bring sick kids to the ER and the ER fills up and the cafeteria fills up and my kitchen has to be ready. I spend August reviewing menus, checking inventory, training new staff, and making sure every single person in my kitchen knows that the September rush is coming and we will be ready because Carmen Delgado-Ortiz does not get caught unprepared. Not in the kitchen. Not ever.
New dietary aide started this week. A young woman, early twenties, Jamaican, named Trish. She is eager and nervous and reminds me of myself thirty years ago when I walked into this hospital as a dietary aide with a nutrition degree and a fear of failure that I hid behind a wall of competence and volume. I showed Trish the kitchen. I showed her the walk-in, the prep stations, the line. I said, This kitchen feeds fifteen hundred people a day. Every tray matters. Every meal matters. The person in that bed might be having the worst day of their life, and this tray might be the one thing that makes them feel cared for. Do not take that lightly. She looked at me with wide eyes. I said, Also, label everything with the date. If I find an unlabeled container, I will know, and I will not be pleased.
Sofia is shopping for school supplies for her senior year and she is being very specific about her notebooks and pens, the way I am specific about my ingredients, and I recognize myself in her specificity and it makes me smile and also makes me want to tell her that the specificity gets worse with age, not better, and eventually you become a fifty-year-old woman who inspects plantains one by one at the bodega and rejects cilantro that is less than perfect and will not use canned beans under any circumstances including the apocalypse.
Made a big pot of mondongo tonight — tripe stew with chickpeas and potatoes and calabaza and sofrito. It is not a dish for everyone. Eduardo loves it. Sofia will not touch it. David used to eat it and now says he has moved past tripe, which I consider a personal betrayal. But mondongo is what Mami made in August because August in Bayamon was hurricane preparation season, and you needed substantial food to fill you up for whatever was coming. In Hartford, what is coming is winter, which is its own kind of hurricane, and you need the same preparation. You need food that sticks to your ribs and reminds you that you are strong enough for whatever comes next.
The mondongo took all day and fed exactly one person who appreciated it, which is the tax you pay for cooking from the soul — but I also knew that most people in this house needed something that would meet them halfway, something warm and filling that did not require an explanation. Quick chili is my compromise dish: it has the same spirit as what I make when I am bracing for something hard, the same intention of feeding people until they feel ready for whatever is coming, but it uses the canned beans I pretend to tolerate and asks nothing of anyone. Here is how I make it.
Quick Chili
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 30 minutes | Total Time: 40 minutes | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 1 lb ground beef (80/20) or ground turkey
- 1 medium yellow onion, diced
- 1 green bell pepper, diced
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 can (15 oz) kidney beans, drained and rinsed
- 1 can (15 oz) black beans, drained and rinsed
- 1 can (28 oz) crushed tomatoes
- 1 cup low-sodium beef broth
- 2 tablespoons chili powder
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
- 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)
- Salt and black pepper to taste
- 1 tablespoon neutral oil
Instructions
- Brown the meat. Heat oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the ground beef, breaking it apart with a wooden spoon. Cook until no pink remains, about 6–8 minutes. Drain excess fat if needed.
- Build the base. Reduce heat to medium. Add the diced onion and bell pepper to the pot. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more until fragrant.
- Bloom the spices. Stir in the chili powder, cumin, smoked paprika, oregano, and cayenne if using. Toast the spices with the meat and vegetables for 1 minute, stirring constantly, so they open up and coat everything evenly.
- Add the liquids and beans. Pour in the crushed tomatoes and beef broth. Add the kidney beans and black beans. Stir everything together and bring to a gentle boil.
- Simmer. Reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the chili has thickened and the flavors have come together. Taste and adjust salt, pepper, and chili powder as needed.
- Serve. Ladle into bowls. Top with shredded cheddar, sour cream, sliced scallions, or whatever you keep on hand. It holds well in the refrigerator for up to 4 days and deepens in flavor overnight.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 330 | Protein: 25g | Fat: 10g | Carbs: 34g | Fiber: 10g | Sodium: 560mg