Sesame Almond Slaw -- The Sharp, Vinegary Side That Holds the Table Together

Memorial Day weekend. The first Memorial Day in two years where the neighborhood feels alive — the barbecues going, the flags out, the sound of children and lawnmowers and the particular suburban hum of Long Island in late May. I stood on the front porch and breathed it in and thought: this is what I missed. Not the holiday itself — I am ambivalent about Memorial Day as a cultural phenomenon — but the humanness of it, the neighbors visible, the world populated, the sense that life is happening outside my house and not just inside it.

David and Jennifer brought the children for a barbecue — an actual, in-person, at-the-house barbecue, with burgers on the grill (Marvin's old grill, which I have been operating solo since he stopped being able to manage it, with results that range from adequate to heroic) and corn on the cob and watermelon and the specific joy of four grandchildren running around a backyard in the last light of a May evening. Ethan, seven, is teaching Sophie, five, to throw a football, with the instructional patience of a boy who has watched YouTube tutorials and considers himself an expert. Noah, two, ate watermelon with his hands and his face and most of his body. Hannah, three months, observed from Jennifer's arms with the grave attention of a person who is cataloguing everything for future reference.

I made Sylvia's coleslaw — the sharp, vinegary version that my grandmother made, with caraway seeds and a dressing that bites. It is the correct coleslaw for a barbecue, and I will not discuss alternative coleslaws, because alternative coleslaws are not relevant to this family's history. The slaw was served alongside the burgers and the corn and the watermelon, and the table — the outdoor table, the picnic table that Marvin bought in 1990 — held the food and the family and the evening, and the table held, as tables do, as they must.

Sylvia’s coleslaw is non-negotiable at our barbecues — that much is settled family law — but after the afternoon we had, with four grandchildren and an outdoor table that held everything it was asked to hold, I found myself thinking about a second slaw for next time: something with a little more crunch and a nuttier bite, something that could stand alongside the caraway version without competing with it. This Sesame Almond Slaw is that slaw. It’s bright and textured and fast to put together, which matters when you’re also managing a grill solo and watching Noah redistribute watermelon across his face.

Sesame Almond Slaw

Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cook Time: 0 minutes | Total Time: 15 minutes | Servings: 8

Ingredients

• 1 package (14 oz) coleslaw mix (shredded cabbage and carrots)
• 4 green onions, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted
• 1/4 cup sesame seeds, toasted
• 3 tablespoons rice vinegar
• 2 tablespoons sesame oil
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Instructions

1. Toast the nuts and seeds. In a dry skillet over medium heat, toast the sliced almonds and sesame seeds together, stirring frequently, until golden and fragrant, about 3–4 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.
2. Make the dressing. In a small bowl, whisk together the rice vinegar, sesame oil, vegetable oil, soy sauce, sugar, ground ginger, and black pepper until the sugar dissolves and the dressing is fully combined.
3. Combine the slaw. In a large bowl, toss the coleslaw mix with the sliced green onions. Pour the dressing over the top and toss well to coat every strand evenly.
4. Add the crunch. Fold in the toasted almonds and sesame seeds just before serving, so they stay crisp. Taste and adjust seasoning — a little more vinegar if you want more bite, a pinch more sugar if you want it rounder.
5. Serve. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve immediately alongside burgers, grilled corn, or anything coming off a backyard grill. This slaw holds in the refrigerator for up to one day; add the nuts fresh if making ahead.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 145 | Protein: 3g | Fat: 11g | Carbs: 9g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 135mg