Mother's Day. This one's complicated.
I took Ma out to lunch — a Vietnamese restaurant on Bellaire that she tolerates, which is as good as it gets because no restaurant pho will ever meet Mai Tran's standards. She ordered the bun rieu — crab noodle soup — and said it was "acceptable." From her, that's a Michelin star. I gave her flowers and a card that Lily had made with glitter and markers. Ma held the card for a long time, turning it over, reading Lily's careful fifth-grade handwriting: "Happy Mother's Day Grandma Mai! Love, Lily." She put it in her purse and said, "Tell Lily she has good handwriting." That's my mother saying she loves her grandchild more than life itself.
The complicated part is Christine. Mother's Day means the kids are with their mom, obviously. I don't begrudge that — she's their mother, she's a good mother, and whatever happened between us doesn't change what she is to them. But it means I'm alone on a day that's about family, and that's a particular kind of quiet.
I cooked for myself. Thit kho — caramelized pork in clay pot, the dish my mother made every week of my childhood. Pork belly braised in coconut water, fish sauce, sugar, garlic, and black pepper until the sauce turns dark amber and the pork is so tender it barely holds together. You eat it over rice and the sauce soaks in and every bite tastes like being eight years old in my mother's kitchen.
I haven't talked much about my dad in these posts. Huy Tran. He died two years ago — pancreatic cancer, caught late, gone fast. He was sixty-eight. I sat with him in hospice and listened to stories I'd never heard. He told me he was proud of me. I waited forty years for those words. They came three days before he died.
Mother's Day makes me think about both of them — Mai, who's still here, still making pho every Saturday, still impossible and essential. And Huy, who's gone, who never said much but said the one thing that mattered at the very end.
I called Linh tonight. My older sister, the doctor, the overachiever. She sent Ma flowers too. We compared notes on Ma's reactions — Linh got a "very nice" for her orchid arrangement, which is actually a lower rating than my flowers because it implies surprise that Linh had good taste. Vietnamese mothers are chess players. Every word is a move.
Liph laughed. I laughed. We don't do this enough — just talk, just be siblings instead of the family archetypes we got stuck with thirty years ago. The golden child and the disappointment. We're too old for those roles now. I hope we're too old.
The thit kho was gone by seven. I’d eaten it the way my mother always meant it to be eaten — slowly, over rice, letting the sauce do its work — and when the bowl was empty the apartment felt very still. I wasn’t ready to stop cooking, or maybe I just wasn’t ready to sit with the quiet without something to do with my hands. So I made these noodles. Sesame, chile, a little heat, a little sweetness — bold enough to pull you back into the present tense. It’s not my mother’s food, but it’s the kind of food that says you fed yourself well tonight, and sometimes that’s the whole point.
Spicy Sesame Chile Noodles with Chicken
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 20 min | Total Time: 35 min | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 8 oz lo mein noodles (or spaghetti)
- 1 lb boneless skinless chicken breast, thinly sliced against the grain
- 1 tbsp vegetable oil
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 tsp fresh ginger, grated
- 3 tbsp soy sauce
- 2 tbsp sesame oil
- 2 tbsp chili garlic sauce (such as sambal oelek)
- 1 tbsp rice vinegar
- 1 tbsp honey
- 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes, plus more to taste
- 2 green onions, thinly sliced
- 2 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
- 1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves (optional)
- Lime wedges, for serving
Instructions
- Cook the noodles. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook noodles according to package directions until just tender. Reserve 1/4 cup pasta water, then drain and rinse under cold water to stop cooking. Set aside.
- Make the sauce. In a small bowl, whisk together soy sauce, sesame oil, chili garlic sauce, rice vinegar, honey, and red pepper flakes until smooth. Taste and adjust heat to your preference.
- Cook the chicken. Heat vegetable oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add chicken in a single layer and cook undisturbed for 2–3 minutes until golden. Flip, add garlic and ginger, and stir-fry another 2 minutes until chicken is cooked through and fragrant.
- Combine. Add drained noodles to the skillet with the chicken. Pour the sauce over everything and toss vigorously over medium heat for 1–2 minutes, adding splashes of reserved pasta water as needed to loosen the sauce and coat every strand.
- Finish and serve. Divide into bowls and top with green onions, toasted sesame seeds, and cilantro if using. Serve immediately with lime wedges alongside.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 445 | Protein: 34g | Fat: 13g | Carbs: 49g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 890mg
About the cook who shared this
Bobby Tran
Week 7 of Bobby’s 30-year story
· Houston, Texas
Bobby Tran was born in a refugee camp in Arkansas to parents who fled Saigon with nothing. He grew up in Houston straddling two worlds — Vietnamese at home, Texan everywhere else — and learned to cook from his mother's pho and a neighbor's BBQ smoker. He's a former shrimper, a recovering alcoholic, a divorced dad of three, and the guy who marinates brisket in fish sauce and lemongrass because he doesn't believe in borders, especially when it comes to flavor.