Stewed Apples — When the Fruit Holds Together and So Does Everything Else

The Valentine's dinner was excellent. The tenderloin was Helen's work — she seared it in the cast iron and finished it in the oven, rested it properly, sliced it across the grain. The wine David left was very good, the label from a Vermont winery I had not tried before. The poached pears held together beautifully, the wine-and-spice liquid having turned ruby-gold in the pot and glossed the pears in something that tasted like everything right about February. Helen said the dessert was better than she expected. I said I thought she expected it to be good. She said she expected it to be fine. I said fine is different from better than expected. She said yes, that is the point.

The news about the virus continues. The United States has now reported cases — limited, contained, the health officials say. I read about it with more attention than I have been giving it. I am sixty-seven years old. Helen is sixty-six. The early reports suggest that older people fare worse. I think about this. Then I go out and split some wood.

The sugarhouse preparations are underway. I spent Saturday afternoon sharpening the drill bits and checking the tap inventory. The taps are in good shape — I bought new ones two years ago and they still look right. The buckets are stacked. The evaporator is ready for the season. Three weeks, approximately. Maybe four if the weather stays cold. The freeze-thaw pattern will tell me when it is time. I have read this pattern for forty-five years. I know it the way I know Helen's tone of voice when something is wrong: before the evidence is complete, from something harder to name than observation.

The poached pears were the quiet success of that Valentine’s dinner—Helen said “better than expected,” which I have learned to accept as high praise. What struck me about them was the simplicity of the thing: fruit, heat, a little time, and something that tasted like intention. Stewed apples work on the same principle, and I have made them more times than I can count in late winter, when the sugarhouse is almost ready and the cold still earns its keep. If you have a pot and patience, you have this dessert.

Stewed Apples

Prep Time: 10 min | Cook Time: 25 min | Total Time: 35 min | Servings: 4

Ingredients

• 4 medium apples (such as Cortland, Braeburn, or Rome), peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch slices
• 1/2 cup water
• 3 tablespoons brown sugar, packed
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• Pinch of salt

Instructions

1. Prepare the apples. Peel, core, and slice the apples into 1/2-inch wedges. Toss lightly with lemon juice to prevent browning while you prepare the pot.
2. Start the syrup. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the water, brown sugar, butter, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Stir until the butter melts and the sugar dissolves, about 2—3 minutes.
3. Add the apples. Add the apple slices to the pot and stir gently to coat. Bring the liquid to a low simmer.
4. Stew until tender. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook for 15—20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the apples are tender but still holding their shape. The liquid will thicken and deepen in color.
5. Finish and rest. Remove from heat, stir in the vanilla extract, and let the apples rest uncovered for 5 minutes. The sauce will continue to thicken as it cools slightly.
6. Serve. Spoon warm into bowls. Serve as-is, or alongside vanilla ice cream, plain yogurt, or a slice of pound cake.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 148 | Protein: 0g | Fat: 3g | Carbs: 32g | Fiber: 4g | Sodium: 42mg