Martin Luther King Day. All-day cooking session with Emma — the tradition we started last year. This time she planned the menu. She came over with a written list and a timeline. A timeline. My fourteen-year-old daughter approached our cooking day with more organizational rigor than I've applied to anything in my professional life.
The menu (Emma's design):
1. Pho broth from scratch (twelve-hour, Ma's recipe, because Emma says my six-hour is "fine but we have time today")
2. Banh mi from scratch (bread, pate, the works — she wanted to improve on last year's bread)
3. Ginger-scallion sauce (she's been perfecting this — the ratio of ginger to scallion to oil is, she says, "the most important thing in Vietnamese cooking," which is debatable but I'm not fighting her)
4. Che ba mau (she wanted to make this again because the Tet celebration is coming)
We started the pho broth at 7 AM. Emma handled the bone roasting this year — she's tall enough for the oven now, and strong enough to carry the heavy pan. Her charring technique on the ginger was better than mine. She watches the fire. She doesn't flinch. There's something in her that's drawn to heat and transformation in a way that goes beyond hobby.
The banh mi bread was significantly better than last year. She adjusted the rice flour ratio and the hydration and the proofing time. The crust shattered. The interior was airy with large, irregular holes. I bit into one and said, "This is professional quality." She said, "It's close. The crumb is still a little tight." She's harder on herself than I am, which is saying something.
While the broth simmered, we talked. She asked me about the shrimp boats. Not the dramatic parts — she knows about the storm, about Carlos, about almost dying. She wanted the quiet parts. What did the water look like at dawn? What did the crew eat for dinner? What songs did they sing?
I told her about sunrise over the Gulf — how the water turns from black to purple to gold in twenty minutes and you're the only one awake on the boat to see it. I told her about the meals: shrimp boiled in seawater with lemons and hot sauce. Fried catfish with cornmeal crust. Rice cooked in a pot so old the rice tasted like every meal that came before it.
She wrote it all down.
"Dad," she said, "your life would make a good book."
"My life would make a cautionary tale," I said.
"Same thing," she said.
She's right. And smarter than me. And making better bread.
Most days don’t come with a seven AM start time and a daughter who has already pre-charred the ginger. Most days it’s just you, a cold kitchen, and the wish that something warm and aromatic could come together before the afternoon disappears. This Thai curried butternut squash soup is what I reach for on those days — it has the same deep, spiced warmth that filled the kitchen during our all-day session, the same hit of ginger that Emma says is “the most important thing,” but it comes together in under an hour. It won’t replace the twelve-hour pho. Nothing does. But it will hold you until the next time you have a timeline and someone worth cooking for.
Thai Curried Butternut Squash Soup
Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cook Time: 35 minutes | Total Time: 50 minutes | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 1 medium butternut squash (about 3 lbs), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes
- 2 tablespoons coconut oil
- 1 medium yellow onion, diced
- 4 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated (do not skip — use more if you want)
- 2 tablespoons red curry paste
- 1 can (13.5 oz) full-fat coconut milk
- 3 cups vegetable broth
- 1 tablespoon fish sauce (or soy sauce to keep it vegan)
- 1 tablespoon brown sugar
- 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
- Salt and black pepper to taste
- Fresh cilantro, thinly sliced scallions, and lime wedges for serving
Instructions
- Prep the squash. Peel, seed, and cube the butternut squash into roughly 1-inch pieces. Uniform size helps it cook evenly, but this is a blended soup — don’t stress it.
- Build the base. Heat coconut oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 5 to 6 minutes.
- Bloom the aromatics. Add the minced garlic and grated ginger and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add the red curry paste and stir it into the onion mixture, cooking for another 2 minutes until the paste darkens slightly and smells fragrant.
- Add squash and liquid. Add the cubed butternut squash, coconut milk, and vegetable broth. Stir to combine. Bring the pot to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to a steady simmer.
- Simmer until tender. Cook uncovered for 20 to 25 minutes, until the squash is completely tender and breaks apart easily when pressed with a spoon.
- Blend until smooth. Remove the pot from heat. Use an immersion blender to puree the soup directly in the pot until smooth and creamy. Alternatively, transfer in batches to a blender — fill no more than halfway and hold the lid down with a folded towel.
- Season and finish. Return the pot to low heat. Stir in the fish sauce, brown sugar, and lime juice. Taste and adjust with salt, pepper, or more lime as needed. The flavor should be rich, a little spicy, and balanced between savory and bright.
- Serve. Ladle into bowls. Top with fresh cilantro, sliced scallions, and a wedge of lime on the side.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 215 | Protein: 3g | Fat: 13g | Carbs: 25g | Fiber: 4g | Sodium: 570mg
About the cook who shared this
Bobby Tran
Week 95 of Bobby’s 30-year story
· Houston, Texas
Bobby Tran was born in a refugee camp in Arkansas to parents who fled Saigon with nothing. He grew up in Houston straddling two worlds — Vietnamese at home, Texan everywhere else — and learned to cook from his mother's pho and a neighbor's BBQ smoker. He's a former shrimper, a recovering alcoholic, a divorced dad of three, and the guy who marinates brisket in fish sauce and lemongrass because he doesn't believe in borders, especially when it comes to flavor.