Fourth of July again, and this year we kept it small — just the four of us, a grill, and the fireworks visible from our piazza. Robert smoked ribs, which is the one outdoor cooking task he has mastered since I claimed the pulled pork as my domain. His ribs are good — apple wood, a sweet rub, low and slow for six hours — and the fact that he has become a competent pitmaster at fifty-one is proof that people can learn new things at any age, which is either obvious or radical depending on whether you've given up.
James has been reading James Baldwin this summer — my recommendation, because I believe every young Black man should read Baldwin the way I believe everyone should drink water: regularly, deeply, because it is essential for survival. He finished "The Fire Next Time" on Tuesday and came to the kitchen and stood in the doorway and said, "Mom. Did you read this?" I said, "Many times." He said, "Why didn't you give it to me sooner?" I said, "You weren't ready sooner." He said, "How did you know I'm ready now?" I said, "Because you're asking."
Carrie is deep into her Japanese reading list. She has finished three books and is currently reading "Snow Country" by Yasunari Kawabata, which she describes as "quiet and devastating, like watching snow fall on something beautiful." She is fifteen in six months and writing sentences like a literary critic. I told her she should consider writing for the school paper. She said, "The school paper covers pep rallies. I want to cover Japan." I said, "Start with pep rallies. Even Toni Morrison started somewhere."
I made pulled pork for the holiday — my version, with the secret coffee rub that nobody knows about. We ate it on the piazza with coleslaw and baked beans and cornbread, and the fireworks bloomed over the harbor, and Robert said, "This is my favorite holiday," and I said, "Because of the ribs or the freedom?" and he said, "The ribs. The freedom is a work in progress." I laughed because it was funny and because it was true and because laughing with Robert feels earned now in a way it didn't before the affair — not easier but more honest, more aware of what it costs to be happy together.
James wants to talk about Baldwin and Carrie wants to cover Japan and Robert wants credit for his ribs — and I want my pulled pork to remain slightly mysterious, which is why I have never written down the coffee rub until now. The sauce is where the secret actually lives: dark-brewed coffee deepens the molasses, balances the vinegar, and gives the whole thing the kind of low, earned smokiness that I think every good thing — a marriage, a holiday, a well-read teenager — eventually arrives at. Make a jar of this on a Saturday and your pulled pork will taste like you know something the rest of the table doesn’t.
Vegan BBQ Sauce with Coffee & Smoked Paprika
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 25 minutes | Total Time: 35 minutes | Servings: 16 (about 2 cups; 2 tablespoons per serving)
Ingredients
- 1 cup tomato ketchup (no high-fructose corn syrup preferred)
- 1/3 cup strong-brewed black coffee, cooled
- 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
- 3 tablespoons dark molasses (not blackstrap)
- 2 tablespoons brown sugar, packed
- 1 tablespoon smoked paprika
- 1 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1 teaspoon onion powder
- 1 teaspoon dry mustard powder
- 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper (or more to taste)
- 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1 tablespoon neutral oil (such as avocado or grapeseed)
- 2 cloves garlic, finely minced
- 1/2 small yellow onion, finely grated (about 3 tablespoons)
Instructions
- Sauté the aromatics. Warm the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the minced garlic and grated onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and fragrant but not browned, about 3 minutes.
- Build the base. Add the ketchup, coffee, apple cider vinegar, and molasses to the pan. Stir to combine, scraping up any bits from the bottom of the pan.
- Add the dry spices. Stir in the brown sugar, smoked paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, mustard powder, cayenne, salt, and pepper until fully incorporated.
- Simmer low and slow. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 20–22 minutes, until the sauce has thickened slightly and deepened in color. It will continue to thicken as it cools.
- Taste and adjust. Remove from heat. Taste the sauce and adjust seasoning — more vinegar for brightness, more molasses for depth, more cayenne for heat. The coffee flavor should be present but not dominant; it is the undertone, not the headline.
- Cool and store. Let the sauce cool to room temperature before transferring to a clean jar or airtight container. Refrigerate for up to 3 weeks. Use as a finishing glaze, a pulled pork mop sauce, or a rib baste in the final 30 minutes of smoking.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 48 | Protein: 0g | Fat: 1g | Carbs: 10g | Fiber: 0g | Sodium: 182mg