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What to Cook This November -- When the Table Holds Everyone and the Roof Holds Too

Thanksgiving week. The marathon begins. I started on Monday — yes, MONDAY — because a proper Delgado-Ortiz Thanksgiving requires five days of preparation and anyone who thinks you can cook Thanksgiving dinner in one day has never fed twenty people a meal that bridges two cultures and requires both a turkey and a pernil and mofongo stuffing and cranberry sauce from a can because cranberries remain outside my jurisdiction.

The turkey is marinating in adobo since Tuesday. Twenty-two pounds of American tradition seasoned with Puerto Rican reality. The mofongo stuffing is prepared — plantains fried, smashed, mixed with chicharron and garlic, ready to be stuffed inside the bird on Thursday morning. The pernil has been in its marinade since Wednesday, the garlic paste deep in the knife slits, the vinegar working its way through the meat. Two massive proteins in one oven. I have a schedule. I have a timer. I have Eduardo standing by for instructions.

Miguel Jr. and Jenny brought Lucas, who is seven months old and wearing a tiny turkey bib that Karen gave him. He sat in his high chair and ate mashed calabaza from my hand and I thought: this is his first real Thanksgiving. His first time at this table on this day. The first of many. The first of fifty, sixty, seventy Thanksgivings at tables that descend from this table. That is what holidays are — the first layer of paint on a wall that will be painted a hundred times, each layer covering the last but never erasing it.

Twenty people at the table. The standard crew plus two of Sofia friends from college who had nowhere to go, because my house has an open-door policy that extends especially to people who have nowhere to go on Thanksgiving. Nobody is alone on Thanksgiving in Carmen proximity. Nobody eats alone. Nobody sits in an empty room while there is space at my table, and there is always space, even when the table is mathematically full. We find space. We add chairs. We make room. That is the Delgado way.

Mami sat at the head. She said grace — in Spanish, short, the kind of prayer that is more Thank you than Please, more gratitude than petition. She said: Thank you for the food. Thank you for the family. Thank you for the roof. The roof. She said the roof, mi amor. And everyone at the table knew what she meant. The roof that is here. The roof that stayed. The roof that holds. Amen.

After five days of prep — the marinating, the frying, the timing two massive proteins in one oven while Eduardo stood by for instructions — what I needed most was a map for the whole month, not just the Thursday. November is generous that way: it gives you the weeks before and after to keep cooking with the same spirit that filled my table. This guide to what to cook in November is the one I reach for when the momentum of Thanksgiving weekend still has me in the kitchen and I don’t want to let go of that feeling — that warm, crowded, roof-over-our-heads feeling — not yet.

What to Cook This November

Prep Time: Varies | Cook Time: Varies | Total Time: All month long | Servings: As many as you can fit at the table

Ingredients

  • 1 well-stocked pantry with seasonal produce: winter squash, sweet potatoes, cranberries, apples, and pears
  • 1 reliable roasting pan, large enough for a 20+ pound bird
  • Aromatics: garlic, onion, fresh thyme, rosemary, and sage
  • Good olive oil and unsalted butter
  • Low-sodium turkey or chicken broth (at least 4 cups)
  • 1 bag fresh or frozen cranberries (12 oz)
  • 3/4 cup granulated sugar (for cranberry sauce)
  • 2 medium butternut squash, halved and seeded
  • 4 large sweet potatoes
  • 1 dozen eggs (for breakfast dishes, stuffings, and desserts alike)
  • Heavy cream and whole milk
  • All-purpose flour (2–3 cups for baking through the month)
  • Brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves
  • 1 pound Italian or breakfast sausage (for stuffings and weekend breakfasts)
  • Seasonal greens: kale, Brussels sprouts, and Swiss chard
  • Apples and pears for roasting alongside pork or chicken
  • Leftover turkey carcass (reserved for stock after Thanksgiving)

Instructions

  1. Start the season right. The first week of November, audit your pantry for the essentials above. Restocking now means fewer emergency runs during the busy weeks ahead. Make a simple roasted butternut squash soup to ease into the month: halve the squash, rub with olive oil, roast at 400°F for 45 minutes, scoop and blend with warm broth, a pinch of nutmeg, and a swirl of cream.
  2. Build your Thanksgiving plan early. By the second week, map out your menu and assign prep days. Brine or begin marinating your turkey at least 48 hours in advance. Prep any make-ahead sides — cranberry sauce keeps beautifully for a week in the refrigerator: combine cranberries, 3/4 cup sugar, and 3/4 cup water in a saucepan, bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer 10 minutes until berries burst.
  3. Roast and fill the house. Thanksgiving morning, start your bird and any large roasts first. Roast sweet potatoes alongside at 375°F until tender, about 50 minutes. Use the drippings and broth to build a pan gravy: deglaze the roasting pan over medium heat, whisk in 3 tablespoons flour, then slowly add 2 cups warm broth, stirring until thickened.
  4. Use every leftover with intention. The Friday and weekend after Thanksgiving are some of the best cooking days of the year. Simmer the turkey carcass with onion, celery, carrot, thyme, and 8 cups water for 2–3 hours to make stock. Use the stock for soups, risottos, and braises through the rest of the month.
  5. Bake your way through the cold weeks. Late November calls for warming baked goods. Use your flour, brown sugar, and spices for quick breads, muffins, or a simple apple cake: toss 3 peeled, sliced apples with cinnamon and brown sugar, fold into a basic batter (2 cups flour, 1 cup sugar, 2 eggs, 1/2 cup oil, 1 tsp baking soda, 1/2 tsp salt), bake in a greased 9x13 pan at 350°F for 35–40 minutes.
  6. Keep the table open. All month, cook with enough to share. November is not a month for single servings. Double the batch, invite someone over, and leave room at the table.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 320 | Protein: 18g | Fat: 11g | Carbs: 38g | Fiber: 5g | Sodium: 410mg

Carmen Delgado-Ortiz
About the cook who shared this
Carmen Delgado-Ortiz
Week 139 of Carmen’s 30-year story · Hartford, Connecticut
Carmen is a sixty-year-old retired hospital cafeteria manager, a grandmother of eight, and a Puerto Rican woman who survived Hurricane María in 2017 and rebuilt her life in Hartford, Connecticut, with nothing but her mother's sofrito recipe and the kind of determination that only comes from watching everything you own get washed away. She cooks arroz con pollo, pernil, and pasteles for every holiday, and her kitchen is always open because in Carmen's world, nobody eats alone.

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