One year since Cody’s release. November seventeenth fell on a Sunday this year, the same day-of-week as the original Saturday in 2018 had cycled around to fall a year later on a Sunday in 2019, a calendar coincidence that felt freighted in a way calendar coincidences don’t actually warrant but that I noticed anyway. Mama called me at noon Central Time, which was eleven AM Central where she was in Sapulpa, while she was sitting at the kitchen table with a cup of coffee and Cody was in the kitchen behind her cooking. She told me Cody had started cooking at nine AM. He had told her at breakfast that he wanted to cook her a quiet one-year-out meal — not a fuss, not a celebration, just an acknowledging meal — and that the menu would be a pot of slow-simmered pinto beans with a ham hock, a pan of buttermilk cornbread, and a single white candle in the middle of the table. That was it. That was the meal.
Mama said his back had been to her for the whole time he’d been cooking, and that he’d been humming the whole time the way he’d been humming on the first Sunday after he’d come home from the unit when he’d made her chicken in white wine sauce. Mama said the kitchen smelled like a Saturday in 1992 when his daddy had still been around and the house had been a different house, except now the cook in the kitchen was the boy who’d been a baby in 1992 and was now a man one year past the unit and four months into his second-year culinary degree. The pot of beans took three hours. Lunch was at one PM. Mama and Cody ate alone. The candle burned down by the second hour.
Sunday at home in Sapulpa I made white beans and spinach as my parallel one-year-out meal — a quiet, humble, intentional dish that felt like the right echo of what Cody was making at home. The dish is the kind of Italian peasant cooking that doesn’t need any of the things American restaurant cooking insists you need: no meat, no stock except water, no pots more elaborate than one. Cannellini beans (one fifteen-ounce can drained and rinsed for the small batch I was making, or a half-pound of dried beans soaked overnight and simmered for the larger version), simmered for thirty minutes with four cloves of smashed garlic, three tablespoons of olive oil, six fresh sage leaves, a parmesan rind from the freezer, salt, black pepper, and just enough water to cover.
The beans absorb the garlic-sage-parmesan flavor over the half-hour simmer. The parmesan rind dissolves slowly into the broth and gives the whole pot a savory depth that doesn’t announce itself but that you’d miss if it weren’t there. The sage leaves stay whole and fragrant.
At the end, off the heat, stir in a generous handful of fresh baby spinach — about three cups packed — and let the residual heat wilt it down to a quarter of its volume in about ninety seconds. Squeeze the juice of half a lemon over the top. Adjust salt. Drizzle with good olive oil. The dish is almost monastic. The bowl is white-and-green-and-gold, and it tastes like restraint.
Served with a hunk of crusty bread for sopping. I made it at four PM in Mama’s kitchen and ate alone at the kitchen table for the first half before Dustin came over at five. Dustin asked at dinner what made the dish feel different from a normal Sunday. I told him about the one-year anniversary, about Cody’s parallel meal in Sapulpa, about the candle Mama had lit at the kitchen table. He listened without interrupting, the way he listens, and didn’t comment until I was done. Then he said, “That’s the kind of Sunday that holds two kitchens at once.” That sentence is now in the Moleskine.
After dinner he hugged me at the front door for a long time before he drove home. Cody texted me at nine-fifteen PM: “Year one. Year two starts Monday. Love you.” I have the text saved in a screenshot folder. The candle is now an annual thing. Next November we will both light one again.
Cannellini, sage, garlic, parmesan rind, spinach off the heat. Lemon at the end. Here’s the bowl.
White Beans and Spinach
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 25 minutes | Total Time: 35 minutes | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 medium yellow onion, diced
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
- 2 cans (15 oz each) cannellini or white navy beans, drained and rinsed
- 1/2 cup low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
- 5 oz fresh baby spinach (about 4 packed cups)
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese (optional, for serving)
Instructions
- Sauté the aromatics. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 6–8 minutes. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and cook 1 minute more, until fragrant.
- Add the beans and broth. Pour in the drained beans and broth. Stir to combine. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook uncovered for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the liquid reduces slightly and the beans begin to break down a little at the edges.
- Wilt the spinach. Add the spinach in batches, folding it into the beans as each handful wilts. Once all the spinach is incorporated, cook 2–3 minutes more until fully wilted and tender.
- Finish and season. Remove from heat. Stir in lemon juice, salt, and black pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. The lemon brightens everything — don’t skip it.
- Serve. Spoon into bowls or alongside grilled meats. Top with Parmesan if using. Good with crusty bread for soaking up the broth.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 280 | Protein: 14g | Fat: 8g | Carbs: 38g | Fiber: 10g | Sodium: 420mg